I've got to get a new rear a-arm and I saw this carbon fibre kit for the NTC3. I don't know alot about carbon fibre and wondered if it would be worth it to upgrade? It's not very expensive.

Well I sold my pede yesterday. My wife and kids still have pede's so I haven't lost contact completely.

With on-road racing and my recent purchase of the Savage and MT2 the pede was just sitting there collecting dust.

Here's a great article on how to mod the 2.5r. I'm going to try it cuz I think it's a good idea to have a spare motor with less power than a TZ for loose/tight tracks. Check it out:

Introduction
The TRX 2.5 is a well designed powerplant that doesn't need much porting to develop phenominal power, in fact it does quite well without any added port work. Being the Power Hungry folk that we are there is always a desire to try to pull more ponies out of our powerplants and that's where your trusty dusty dremel comes into play. Along with a steady hand and a ton of patience . I figure pictures are worth a thousand words so for the most part I will let them speak for themselves.

Bits I used to do this Job
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=10748

Before disassembling your mill, make sure that the engines exterior is completely free of debris. You can do this by blowing it off with compressed air and spraying it down with denatured alchohol. I also like to use a toothbrush to get the crust off and follow it all up with another blast of compressed air. When you are confident that no grit or sand will make it into your case and perhaps your bearings when breaking down your engine you are free to proceed. I remove the clutch assembly and the nut and flywheel first, followed by the head backlate and finally the carb.

I always look into the carb case bore after removing the carb to see if the crank window matches up flush with the carb case bore on the front and rear edges (not side to side). I also look for scratches on the crankshaft that wrap around the crank, clear signals that Dirt or debris has entered through the air filter. Look at the base of the carb, is the throat lip thickness equal to the matching lip inside the case? If not you will have to match these two surfaces either by coning the inside diameter of the carb bore or grinding away some material from the case bore. In the TRX 2.5 you have to do neither, the stock 2.5 carb is already portmatched to the case and needs no work whatsoever. The carb inlet is also tapered and requires no work, a welcome sight!


Next peer into the Exhaust port... Does the sleeve port line up perfectly with the case exhaust port? Do you see any Brass sleeve showing? On the TRX 2.5 this is also portmatched and needs no work. Now remove the sleeve rod and piston, followed by the crankshaft.

Time to remove the bearings from the case, this can be a real pain on stubborn engines! You will need to bake the engine in the Oven or toaster oven... Most recommend 350degrees for ten minutes, I find that they don't release at this temp most of the time. I just set my oven on the maximum setting and wait about five minutes. Pull the engine out wearing your oven mitt or pot holder and rap the engine on the countertop backplate down until the inner bearing drops out, if it won't budge heat it again for a few more minutes. After removing the inner bearing, turn the engine over insert the crank into the front bearing and give it a wiggle as you slide the bearing out of the case. Let all parts cool to room temp, bag your bearings in a ziplock bag to keep them free from particle contamination. Now you are ready to get down to business!

WARNING: Before you work on the crankshaft put a small peice of fuel tubing onto the rod Journal to protect it's surface from accidental slips with your tool!


I always start on the crankshaft. The TRX 2.5 crank is probably the only part that holds back the 2.5 from achieving maximum RPM and power. You will notice that the bore is very small but has a nice slope at the induction window. We want to bore out the crank considerably(bits 2+1 then 6+7), When I'm done boreing out the crank port, I usually knife edge the inside of the induction window on the crank that sits below the carb(bits 5+, you can see that on the 2.5 there is alot of material to remove, try to keep the integrity of the slope into the crank bore so the mixture enters as smooth as possible!
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=10750


Typically, I will then chamfer the area leading out into the crankcase (bits 4+7) before finally adding the scallop to the left side of the opening(bits 3+7)...

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=10749

If you choose to, you can follow up all your cuts with a polishing bit (like bit 9) and some metal polish such as Mothers or the ilk.

Next I do the sleeve, remember the order is up to you. Make sure you make your cuts to direct the mixture flow away from the exhaust port on the transfer ports! I always use the tarnish on the sleeve as a guideline to where I run the channels on the transfer ports...you don't want to make them so they are past the area where the case meets the sleeve, that would be useless! On engines where the transfer case ports are perfectly vertical I will sometimes remove some material in the case along the exhaust side to angle the port wall and direct the flow away from the exhaust port, but on the 2.5 there is just no need.(bits 4+5, 7+8, 9)

Sleeve before and after pics
(These sleeve pics are from a previous port job but are basically identicle)

Left transfer port

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=11279
Boost port
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=11280

Right transfer port
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=11281

Now for the case.... there really isn't much to do here because, the carb bore is already matched and the transfer ports continue directly down into the galley...the only thing I do to the 2.5 case is remove the material between the boost port and the transfer ports below the sleeve, this mod is usually seen in modified RB's and ensures maximum flow to the boost port since it is obstructed by the rear bearing and crankshaft counterweight. Make them so they are on and upswept angle toward the boost port. For this I use the Coarse Round bit (#1) followed by the Fine round bit (#6) going through the cylinder from the top and observing my progress through the backplate hole. Be carefull not to marr up the sleeve seating surface with the dremel chuck.
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=10752
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=10751

Ok...now you can polish what you feel needs it and clean everything twice or more before putting your mill back together. I usually will used warm soap and water with a small brush like an old toothbrush then rinse everything thoroughly and blow them off with compressed air. I don't recommend drying them with paper towel as you run the risk of fibers getting caught in your engine. When they are sterile and dry install your bearings in the case by heating the case just like before. Lay the outerbearing open side up on a clean workspace, take your hot engine and put it over the bearing and press down, it should slide right into the case without too much effort if it is straght and true. Then Slide the inner bearing open side to the crank onto the crankshaft and slide it into the case. I use a clean driver to press the crank and bearing into place, make sure the bearing is inserted all the way and let the engine cool. Well, you know the rest.

What to expect from your ported engine
If done correctly your ported engine should provide you with greater top RPM and a significant boost in power from the mids through maximum RPM. Coupled with a good low end pipe the engines broad powerband is awesome!


(Attachments successfully scanned for viruses.)

Attachment 1: icon_wink.gif (image/gif)

Attachment 2: icon_cool.gif (image/gif)

Location:
Intense Raceway Park
10211 Keslinger Road
Dekalb, IL
815.756.2772

Date:
September 10, 2005

Time:
Doors open at 9AM
Racing starts at 1PM
Cost:
$20 for first class
$5 per additional class

Classes:
Sedan Stock 27T Rubber Tires (TakeOff CS27)
Sedan Stock 27T Foam Tires
Sedan Open Modified
1/12th Scale Open Modified

Trophies will be awarded to all A Main races and top 3 in B Mains.

What is it that draws you to a track, what is the main feature of a track that you like?

What do you think? Not sure about the flames.

Attached Files

  DSC00363-1.JPG (Size: 60.99 KB / Downloads: 20)
  DSC00364-1.JPG (Size: 61.15 KB / Downloads: 14)
  DSC00365-1.JPG (Size: 63.51 KB / Downloads: 39)
  DSC00366-1.JPG (Size: 63.29 KB / Downloads: 12)
  DSC00367-1.JPG (Size: 62.7 KB / Downloads: 13)

I've never been to Hardesty's and neither has Matt so we're looking to go this coming weekend. Anyone else interested?

I've got a new motor coming but I'm going to put a new P/S in my old 2.5r and use my TM slide carb on it for this coming weekend. When it ran, that little thing John was kind enough to loan me wasn't bad. Especially with the RB TM323 header/pipe and a Motor Saver filter. I'm going to mod the exhaust port on the new 2.5r P/S like I saw on this one site. Anybody else see that? I can't find the link for some reason.

How much (mph)if any do you gain if you take it out? Or is it just dead weight? And is it easy to install? O saw a kit for it for 12 bucks. Thanks

A first-grade teacher, Ms. Brooks, was having trouble with one of her
students. The teacher asked, "Harry, what's your problem?"

Harry answered, "I'm too smart for the 1st grade. My sister is in the 3rd
grade and I'm smarter than she is! I think I should be in the 3rd grade too!"

Ms. Brooks had had enough. She took Harry to the principal's office.

While Harry waited in the outer office, the teacher explained to the
principal what the situation was. The principal told Ms Brooks he would give the boy a test. If he failed to answer any of his questions he was to go back to the 1st grade and behave. She agreed.

Harry was brought in and the conditions were explained to him and he agreed to take the test.

Principal: "What is 3 x 3?"

Harry: "9".

Principal: "What is 6 x 6?"

Harry: "36".

And so it went with every question the principal thought a 3rd grader should know.

The principal looks at Ms. Brooks and tells her, "I think Harry can go to
the 3rd grade."

Ms. Brooks says to the principal, "Let me ask him some questions."

The principal and Harry both agreed.

Ms. Brooks asks, "What does a cow have four of that I have only two of?"

Harry, after a moment: "Legs."

Ms. Brooks: "What is in your pants that you have but I do not have?"

The principal wondered, why would she ask such a question!

Harry replied: "Pockets."

Ms. Brooks: "What does a dog do that a man steps into?"

Harry: "Pants"

Ms. Brooks: What's starts with a C, ends with a T, is hairy, oval, delicious
and contains thin, whitish liquid?

Harry: "Coconut."

The principal sat forward with his mouth hanging open.

Ms. Brooks: "What goes in hard and pink then comes out soft and sticky?"

The principal's eyes opened really wide and before he could stop the answer.

Harry: "Bubble gum"

Ms. Brooks: "What does a man do standing up, a woman does sitting down and a dog does on three legs?"

Harry: "Shake hands."

The principal was trembling.

Ms. Brooks: "What word starts with an 'F' and ends in 'K' that means a lot
of heat and excitement?"

Harry: "Firetruck"

The principal breathed a sigh of relief and told the teacher, "Put Harry in
the fifth-grade, I got the last seven questions wrong......

HPI Dirt Claw tires





Press release:


The new Dirt Claws tires from HPI Racing have been designed to take on the toughest off-road track conditions and can be used for on-road driving as well. The Dirt Claws feature a highly aggressive tread design with special grooves that help prevent dirt build-up, lightened tread blocks for improved acceleration, and directional tread blocks for high grip. Our sticky B compound rubber delivers long tire life and high grip, and the inner sidewalls have special reinforcement that helps prevent tire distortion for stable handling.

Designed to fit Savage and T-Maxx monster truck wheels, the Dirt Claws are sure to be a big hit with off-road and on-road racers alike. Each package contains two molded rubber tires with preassembled foam inserts for additional performance and handling.

#4874 Dirt Claws Tire B Compound (145x84mm/2pcs)
EAN# 4944258048741
$30.00

HPI 17mm Savage hub conversion



Press release:

HPI Racing is proud to offer this new 17mm Hex Hub Conversion Set with Universal Joints for the Savage series of Monster Trucks. 17mm hex hubs decrease the stress on the wheels, helping to prevent stripped wheels when using high horsepower engines. Universal joints deliver improved durability and more efficiency than the stock dogbones. They're machined from high strength steel, hard chromed for a shiny durable finish that is easy to clean and looks great, and fully rebuildable to add extra life when it comes time for maintenance. These universal joints are factory designed, factory manufactured and team tested for the best fit and durability on the market. To help keep these universals together in the toughest conditions, the joint pin has been made with a special flat spot so the set screw gets a better seat when tightened. Sold as a set of four and includes everything needed to assemble and install.

Comes with everything needed to upgrade one truck, including four axles/nuts, a wrench, thread lock and grease

#87230 17mm Hex Hub Conversion Set w/UV Joint (Savage)
EAN# 4944258872308
$90.00