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Break-in Problems - Printable Version +- ChitownRC (https://www.chitownrc.com) +-- Forum: Main Forums (https://www.chitownrc.com/forum-4.html) +--- Forum: Racers Forum (https://www.chitownrc.com/forum-9.html) +--- Thread: Break-in Problems (/thread-1432.html) Pages:
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Break-in Problems - PoPRC - 11-09-2005 I think my ARO is ATM Fluid. Soon as I finish it off I am gonna get some MMO. Break-in Problems - kevinF - 11-09-2005 hey michowski what engine do you run in your revo? thanks, traxxas thrasher Break-in Problems - Michowski - 11-09-2005 os .18tm Break-in Problems - UE-Maxx - 11-09-2005 Well I only have three 5 minute runs left. Done today because dead ignitor battery again. I am going to charge my second one while I am at school. Break-in Problems - DAVEC-NITRO-RS4 - 11-09-2005 Hey Mich, What kind of chassis, fuel tank, radio and servos do you use? Sorry, TT, couldn't let you off that easy. Welcome to the wiseguy world. I love ya man. Break-in Problems - UE-Maxx - 11-09-2005 Just wondering, why is the engine so hard to start? I pre-heat it to around 150 with with a hair dryer. Can't start it. I can get it started if I open the throttle a little bit. I need to stay on the throttle just a tad ( not even enough to make the wheels move off the ground ) to keep it running until it gets to nice temps. Break-in Problems - SixVi6-Camaro - 11-09-2005 its because its still very tight. the piston is AL and Sleve is chrome plated brass. The two metals have different expansion rates. When the engine is below full operating tempreature the piston sill want to stick in the sleve at TDC (Top Dead Center). After you get it warmed up the tollerance in the piston/sleve opens up a bit more and it runs better. As you break in the engine it will get easier to start. Break-in Problems - PoPRC - 11-09-2005 Are blowing gas into the carb? or putting your finger on the stinger to prime her up? Break-in Problems - UE-Maxx - 11-09-2005 Ok, I am getting really frustrated with all this pulling. I have cuts all over my fingers. I am not exactly sure what they are hitting, but I can feel the blood running down my hands and then I notice little slices. Break-in Problems - UE-Maxx - 11-10-2005 No problems so far. I just got done with two 5 minute runs. One left. My question is should I keep the aluminum foil on the head after break-in? Break-in Problems - Tex - 11-10-2005 just run it as normal Break-in Problems - Michowski - 11-10-2005 take it off after break in and just start slowly tunning for performance. I had about 4 tanks on my brand new motor when i first went to the dirt dawgs race and that thing was just driving like i had 3 gallons on it. TO this day with over a gallon on it i still have a lot of trouble turning the flywheel. Just start tunning it and driving it like normal after you get done with that last 5 minute run. Break-in Problems - UE-Maxx - 11-10-2005 Break-in is done. :joy: I am going to do a tank tonight, and do some tomorrow. No school. Break-in Problems - Michowski - 11-10-2005 for the first tank after the heat cycle take it a little slow and dont just go wot. Give it a lot of wot to idle blipping just to kind of ease the motor into it. Break-in Problems - UE-Maxx - 11-10-2005 Thats pretty much what I did. Temps are 230-250. Still going to lean it out a bit. Scratched the cooling head a bit. Tapped the throttle and hit a bump in my lawn. Luckily my shock tower posts are pretty high and protected it a lot. Break-in Problems - Tex - 11-11-2005 mine ran 235 all day and had mean power Break-in Problems - UE-Maxx - 11-11-2005 I wish I would have had this motor at the bash. Break-in Problems - Czech-it-Out Graphics - 11-20-2005 u wanna hit all throttle ranges through break in. I dunno if i would run it a 240ish since its an .18 most O.S. motors run outstanding at 200-210 range. I usually heat cycle my motors. I usually get to around 12 tanks or so before i let the temps get up to about 240-260 just my $.02 |