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+--- Thread: somewhat urgent help needed (/thread-1203.html)
somewhat urgent help needed - RobH - 10-08-2005
Anyone want to come over and break in my .18 cv-rx in my maxx tomorrow (sunday, 10-08) for me? This stuff is startin to piss me off. 2 full chargers on a glow ignitor and it wont stay running long enough to even start breaking it in. $20.
Now I am gonna have to go to work with my fingers all bloody and blistered up, fun. :mad:
somewhat urgent help needed - Michowski - 10-08-2005
bring it down to the dd race in elburn. Im sure between all of us we can get that thing in perfect working shape. Just gotta give it the heat cycle break in and that will be one killer fast motor.
somewhat urgent help needed - RobH - 10-08-2005
Michowski Wrote:bring it down to the dd race in elburn. Im sure between all of us we can get that thing in perfect working shape. Just gotta give it the heat cycle break in and that will be one killer fast motor.Only way i'd get there is if tex gave me a ride there, and if he did, theres no way I'd be home in time for work.
somewhat urgent help needed - Michowski - 10-08-2005
ok well im sure tex will help you then since it sounds like you both live close to each other.
somewhat urgent help needed - RobH - 10-08-2005
Michowski Wrote:ok well im sure tex will help you then since it sounds like you both live close to each other.
yeah, but I want to have the motor broken in by sunday, so I can bash all monday, so I doubt he could help.
somewhat urgent help needed - Michowski - 10-08-2005
well sounds like 95% of the people on this board will be at the race so dont know what to tell ya. I would suggest going back to factory needle positions and changing your glow plug. Otherwise its hard to say without having it right in front of me.
somewhat urgent help needed - bigjs - 10-08-2005
well why don't u just tell us what u r doing, and maybe someone on here can help.
somewhat urgent help needed - RobH - 10-08-2005
http://www.outlawrc.com/engine_break-in.htm
Thats the break in method I am using.
I get the engine preheated and everything, and then I get the engine started, but if I adjust the throttle even a small amount, the engine dies, and if i let it idle, it dies in about 4 seconds. Some times as soon as it starts, its reving very high, then other times, very low.
somewhat urgent help needed - bigjs - 10-08-2005
did you set the needles according to break in, in the manual. his method seems different from what i've seen or what i've done.
somewhat urgent help needed - RobH - 10-08-2005
bigjs Wrote:did you set the needles according to break in, in the manual.
Yup, then added 2 full turns as instructed in the wolf break in method.
somewhat urgent help needed - bigjs - 10-08-2005
i'd back off the two full turns it may be flooding the engine. i also have never used a heating gun to heat it up before hand.
somewhat urgent help needed - rocco79 - 10-08-2005
2 full turns past stock settings is way toooo much !!!!!
Its an o.s. motor right??? They usally are known for quality and a reliable idle and power... Just use the breakin method that the manufactuer recommends man.
Bigjs- The heat gun just helps relieve stress on the one way bearing,conrod and starting system by helping to get the sleeve to expand alittle so there isnt so much friction apon initail start up. It helps alot with super tight engines
somewhat urgent help needed - bigjs - 10-08-2005
I knew what it was for, I just said I've never used it. I usually just read the manual and get it running that way. Then just use the heat cycle method. By biggest problem is tuning it after I've gotten it broken in.
somewhat urgent help needed - RobH - 10-08-2005
rocco79 Wrote:Just use the breakin method that the manufactuer recommends man.
OS break in instructions are very vague.
somewhat urgent help needed - rocco79 - 10-08-2005
bigjs Wrote:I knew what it was for, I just said I've never used it. I usually just read the manual and get it running that way. Then just use the heat cycle method. By biggest problem is tuning it after I've gotten it broken in.Ok ok take it easy joe! I dont need you tryin to beat me up tomorrow... I was just tryin to help
somewhat urgent help needed - rocco79 - 10-08-2005
RobH Wrote:OS break in instructions are very vague.
Well uhhh... what do they say maybe we can help you if you tell us what the manual say bud
somewhat urgent help needed - RobH - 10-08-2005
rocco79 Wrote:Well uhhh... what do they say maybe we can help you if you tell us what the manual say bud
basically, it just says run the car on the track untill 1 tank of fuel has been consumed, close the needle-valve 30 degrees, and run the car for another full tank, and so on, untill 5 tanks of fuel have been used.
I would just do the traxxas break in again, but the last CV-RX I did that with didn't even last a gallon.
I would seriously rather pay someone to break it in and tune it the right way. Save me the stress, and probably give the engine more power and life than me breaking it in would.
somewhat urgent help needed - rocco79 - 10-08-2005
I went on google and tried to find ya some info... No luck... Sorry man. Just try bringing that needle in alittle more than 2 full turns ... If the engine runs and says right around 200 degrees and has lots of oily smoke blowin out your in the area of a good brekin tune in my opinion..
Is that a brand new engine or a rebuild? Cuz maybe the carb is set for break in from the factory...
somewhat urgent help needed - RobH - 10-08-2005
brand new engine.
somewhat urgent help needed - rocco79 - 10-08-2005
ENGINE BREAK-IN LIKE THE PROS
This was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get more life and performance out of his OS motor. This break-in method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine (except for ringed engines).
If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
somewhat urgent help needed - Obsessive R/C - 10-08-2005
I'm going to be in Bolingbrook on Monday...are you around during the day??
somewhat urgent help needed - RobH - 10-08-2005
Obsessive R/C Wrote:I'm going to be in Bolingbrook on Monday...are you around during the day??
yes I am. :joy:
somewhat urgent help needed - Obsessive R/C - 10-08-2005
PM me w/ your info and I'll see if I can can drop by and give you a hand.
somewhat urgent help needed - bigjs - 10-08-2005
if when i start to give it throttle and it starts to bog and want to die, what needle is too rich?
robh- i would say just try and get it started and running with out having to leave the glow plug starter on it. try 2 and a half out on the hsn and 1 out on the lsn. also make sure ur idle is set right.
somewhat urgent help needed - RobH - 10-08-2005
bigjs Wrote:if when i start to give it throttle and it starts to bog and want to die, what needle is too rich?
robh- i would say just try and get it started and running with out having to leave the glow plug starter on it. try 2 and a half out on the hsn and 1 out on the lsn. also make sure ur idle is set right.
it runs for a couple seconds without the glow starter on it. I'll try breaking it in again tomorrow.