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cleaning engine internals
#1
Hey everyone, I just picked up a nitro tc3 and it has a .15 os max engine in it. It only has about 1 gallon of 20% ran thru it but the internals are kinda browned up. It takes quite a few pulls to get it started but once it does start it runs like a raped ape! It has great compression also. I know I cleaned up the top of a piston before with some denatured alcohol and it started faster and ran better, but I was wondering if there is a way to properly do this or a tech secret floating around out there. I know the brown will come off also it's not really burned in if that makes sence.
Thanks
Jeff
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#2
well i really wouldnt worry about that, if you really feel a need to I would pull everything out, and soak it in denatured or mineral spirits flush out the case with fuel and then make sure to use plenty of after run when u reasemble it
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#3
if you have an old crock pot or somthing you can control the heat on. Put all the parts in it with some antifrezze. let it get warmed up and in an hour or two your parts will be shiny clean without scrubbing
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#4
Czech-it-Out Graphics Wrote:well i really wouldnt worry about that, if you really feel a need to I would pull everything out, and soak it in denatured or mineral spirits flush out the case with fuel and then make sure to use plenty of after run when u reasemble it
do you think that that won't cause the hard starting?

rocco79 Wrote:if you have an old crock pot or somthing you can control the heat on. Put all the parts in it with some antifrezze. let it get warmed up and in an hour or two your parts will be shiny clean without scrubbing

ok. If I do this I will need to rebreak in the engine?
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#5
no but ull need to put alot of oil in it so u dont blow it up, ur really better of just leaving it alone
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#6
I guess this is what happens when people don't use afterrun every time lol. I gotta get me a roto start or something then lol. I gotta pull this thing like 50 times. I'll break me 50 pull starts by the time it croaks out for good
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#7
sounds like more of a fuel pickup problem. After run would make it more difficult to start and foul out ur glow plug. first thing I would do is seal up the motor back plate carb everything. If its still hard to start I would goto a hotter plug. If that doesn't help I would change all the fuel lines and or the tank.
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#8
Czech-it-Out Graphics Wrote:sounds like more of a fuel pickup problem. After run would make it more difficult to start and foul out ur glow plug. first thing I would do is seal up the motor back plate carb everything. If its still hard to start I would goto a hotter plug. If that doesn't help I would change all the fuel lines and or the tank.

ok. I'll seal it all up. I have blown into the line and seen the fuel enter the carb but still hard to start.

What will cause the brownish on the piston top? It's not burnt because it will wipe off
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#9
its castor oil, its from running too rich; the engine must be old if its all over the other stuff, thats just stains from the oil it was stored with really. What fuel are u using
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#10
it is an older engine. It really does run great though, good temps plenty of power and good smoke. I'm using byrons 30% race in it now after the retune from his 20% I don't know if it's everywhere on the inside. The outside is immaculate. I was just wondering about cleaning everything. Maybe I'll just wipe the top of the piston off with some alcohol and be done with it since it reallly has no effect
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#11
AddictedtoNITRO Wrote:ok. I'll seal it all up. I have blown into the line and seen the fuel enter the carb but still hard to start.

What will cause the brownish on the piston top? It's not burnt because it will wipe off

maybe the top end is too lean and bottom too rich, casue if its getting fuel but is hard to start or will start, but then die right away that could be it
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#12
kevinF Wrote:maybe the top end is too lean and bottom too rich, casue if its getting fuel but is hard to start or will start, but then die right away that could be it


nope runs absolutly perfect after you start it. the thing will idle a whole tank if I let it . has snappy throttle and great insane top end with good smoke throughout the entire band. just a major pia to start. I'm not lying when I say I have to pull the stinkin rope 50+ times lol. I just put a new mc59 plug in it too and it helped just a tad maybe 40 times now lol

btw yes the engine is warm. I keep the car in the house. After it has been run a tank like 10 mins later may take like 20 pulls to start only
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#13
hmm hows the compression
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#14
tight enough to hurt my finger trying to turn it thru the bottom of the chassis. I can't.
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#15
whats the next step up plug from a mc59?
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#16
nothing really, an rb 4 maybe
Here is a link to my website-
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1/29/07 never forget....TTT Confusedalute:
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#17
idk. I'll seal it and chanke the lines and tank ring and see what happens then. Thanks for the info guys!
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#18
Jeff,

go upstairs and talk to Scotty, see if he can score you some OMS (odorless mineral spirits) samples..
"if guns cause crime, all of mine are defective" - Ted Nugent
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#19
10-4
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#20
Soap, warm water, and a tooth brush.
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#21
are u insane? why would you even think of cleaning engine bearings in water? moisture is the absolute worst thing for a motor
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1/29/07 never forget....TTT Confusedalute:
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#22
warm water is fine Mike. Its the cold water that could harm the bearings. Geez and I thought a sponsored driver like yourself would of known that.
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#23
no mich water period is terrible
Here is a link to my website-
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1/29/07 never forget....TTT Confusedalute:
Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you

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#24
I agree with mike, u could also miss a spot and that could lead to rust
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#25
I wouldnt use water in bearings simply because..well, I dont think its really plauisble to think you could get that water out of there. Rusty Ball bearings and you've got yourself a blown engine. Lol Well not blown but probably not good.,
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