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Who Uses MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil)?
#1
I picked up a bottle of this stuff for after run. It's kinda hard to pour just a little bit out. How do you just pour a little bit out and get the oil in the glow plug hole without getting it all over the head?
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#2
I saw you drove your car yesterday, when is the next time you honestly think you will be firing up the motor again?
BTW, I never use after run oil. It's only needed if you store your RC in a damp place or if you are going to store the truck for 3+ weeks at once. Situations may vary, use your brain Smile
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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#3
I use 3 in 1 oil and it comes with a little drip top. Just put about 10 drops in and your good. I use if im not gonna run the next day. Number 1 cause of bearings letting go in an engine is from rust from not using ARO. Better safe then sry IMO
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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#4
dont bother ur just gonna blow plugs and piss urself off. If your gonna store it for say the whole winter (like Tex said) then use a little bit
Here is a link to my website-
http://www.czech-it-out-graphics.com
1/29/07 never forget....TTT Confusedalute:
Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you

"Always Imitated, Never Duplicated"
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#5
Mich after you run ur motor open it up and take a look at how much oil ur fuel leaves behind you will sh*t lol no need for any extra
Here is a link to my website-
http://www.czech-it-out-graphics.com
1/29/07 never forget....TTT Confusedalute:
Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you

"Always Imitated, Never Duplicated"
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#6
Steve, to answer your question, go to Hobby Lobby and buy a small spout bottle for 50 cents. They sell them in the area by the paints. They are handy for many uses. I use one to flush water throught my airbrush between colors.

Or, save the next little bottle you get from contact lense solution, if you wear them.
got paint?
Colors by Dave - CBD
1-29-07 ... you know.
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#7
mike its not enough oil for the bearings or crank. Just enough for the p/s. I mainly worry about the bearings because if they stay oiled then theres barely any chance of them going out in the life of the p/s
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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#8
Thanks, Dave.

Tex, to answer your question about what is the next time I will be driving, probably a the weekend. I want to order plugs and a head shim. What kind/size of shim do I need?
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#9
mich there is more than enough oil in there. You cant see the oil in the bearings that gets sucked in while the motor is running there is oil all over every part of the motor because fuel touches every part of the motor, for the most part
Here is a link to my website-
http://www.czech-it-out-graphics.com
1/29/07 never forget....TTT Confusedalute:
Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you

"Always Imitated, Never Duplicated"
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#10
I personaly never touch the stuff.... I find that the fuel leaves enough oil in there for my taste... But to each his own
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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#11
I never use after run oil either.
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#12
I only use after run oil when i break in an engine.........once I get through 1 gallon of break in i dont use it anymore.

the way i do it is i take off the head and put a few drops in and put the head on and crank it a few times
Losi 8ight with v-spec[SIZE="4"]
[/SIZE]
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#13
Thanks

So does anyone know what size head shim I should use?
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#14
I don't use After Run any more.

I moved over to using WD40.

I use it all the time especially now with humidity on the rise since it is summer time.
The WD40 will coat everything inside and helps to repel moisture.
Just a little down the carb and I pull out the plug and a lil down there.
As for blowing plugs---that may be the casr with cheap ones.
I do not have this problem with plugs and WD40.
Besides I would prefer to burn up a plug than loose a motor over poor maint IMO.

Now I use the MM in the motor for long period storage but I pull the motor, clean it up real good, then I put it in a plastic bag and I drench it in MMO.
I also try to get as much air out of the bag as possible and triple bag it. Just for leaks from the bag.

This is what I do but you will find everybody has their own way of doing things.
Life is like Beavers, One Damn thing after another- Unknown
If your not breakin parts your not going fast enough-Biodragen


NTC3 RTR assoc .15
NTC3 OS .18

Losi 8T, JR8611a ST servo, Futaba 9350 Th\Brk Servo, RB-C6BB Motor and Novarossi 528XR.
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#15
I use it because im cool like that. Wink jk lol
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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#16
i used to use it but someone learned me some things now my engine are easier to start and run better too.
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#17
I've never had engine bearings let go on me or any other premature failure of any kind. (cept my first 2.5 when I was a newb and I used after run then..lol)

Mich, how many engines have you had go bad prematurely? 10ish?

BTW, who has my old EBp5 now? Anyone know?
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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#18
Tex Wrote:BTW, who has my old EBp5 now? Anyone know?
Wish I did Smile as a backupCool
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#19
I started using the oil after my last os died. Remember the engines known to get very short lifes. On my first 2.5r on the revo I got just under 7 gallons. On my t-maxx engines I averaged 5 gallons. My plus 21-5 has 2 gallons and its still a big struggle to turn it over by hand. My 3.3 still has a ton of compression and sticks at TDC at times. My original 2.5r on the revo got just over 6 gallons till it lost all compression. This is all without the oil in it, I put the oil in after turning the flywheels.

Only problem I had was using a POS motor to race. Dont get me wrong tho I liked the power band on the os .18's and loved racing it but getting it to last was impossible. It was a 50/50 chance of having it last more then 3 gallons.
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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#20
I know the motor gremlins attacked you Mich, just foolin....
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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#21
Watch out if your useing wd-40... Ive heard its bad on the seals in the carb and if you have a crank thats filled wd-40 willl dissolve the filling
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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#22
AND, WD40 displaces moisture, but does nothing to absorb or eliminate it.
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#23
Maybe the case but I got tired of rust building up inside even using After run and MMO. I would think it would be better to sit then absorb and turn to rust.
Since the use of WD40 and (I do use sparingly) This has not been an issue anymore.
I don't have hard starts and blown plugs like I did using After run and MMO.
Life is like Beavers, One Damn thing after another- Unknown
If your not breakin parts your not going fast enough-Biodragen


NTC3 RTR assoc .15
NTC3 OS .18

Losi 8T, JR8611a ST servo, Futaba 9350 Th\Brk Servo, RB-C6BB Motor and Novarossi 528XR.
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#24
Since it does not displace it---water\moisture does evaporate
Life is like Beavers, One Damn thing after another- Unknown
If your not breakin parts your not going fast enough-Biodragen


NTC3 RTR assoc .15
NTC3 OS .18

Losi 8T, JR8611a ST servo, Futaba 9350 Th\Brk Servo, RB-C6BB Motor and Novarossi 528XR.
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#25
it doesn't evaporate from the inside of a sealed motor
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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