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Ok guys this is something I was thinking about after seeing people at the Dirt Dawgs race on Sunday having flame outs. I had a flame out with my Predator in the 2nd heat and I believe I finished 4thor 5th because of it. Was running 2nd behind Rocco. My Predator has a TRX 2.5 and you can tune that engine everyday and it never runs the same.
My GS SUT RM25 engine always holds a tune and never flames out. Seems to me a big-block engine is easier to tune than a small-block. What do you think?
So lets here some opinions. Obviously engine tuning is a major factor in flame outs. What about glow plugs and their different heat ranges? The fuel pressure line from the pipe to the fuel tank? Have you ever corrected a flame out problem just by changing the line length or the glow plug heat range.
What about when your upside down and flame out. What can you change to keep the engine running for 15-20 seconds as your waiting for a turn marshall.
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MaxxGS Wrote:What about when your upside down and flame out. What can you change to keep the engine running for 15-20 seconds as your waiting for a turn marshall.
A longer line between the tank and the carb.
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I havent suffered a flameout YET, thankfully. But here is an article I found on fixing flameout.
http://rccaraction.com/articles/ht_fixflameout.asp
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Try putting an fuel filter without the element on the pressure side. (tank to pipe)
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The biggest problem people have when upside down is they give it gas. If youhold the brakes on the truck/buggy will idle longer than you giving it gas, since there isonly x amount of fuel in the line and idleing will consume less fuel.
I fortunately do not have flame out problems (fingers crossed, knocking on wood). But I think alot has to do with glow plug selection and also tuning. I htink tuning is more that the glow plug. I am not sure if the pressure line length has much to do with it.
people must remember that runnign a engine to rich can have the same bad effect has runnign it to hot.
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A lot of times flame outs are also caused by using the wrong plug for the type of fuel used. And by the way, not all plug mfrs. use the same numbering system to identify their plugs' rating.
Yep, tuning too rich will not let the plug stay hot enough to start the next combustion cycle. It will be doused with fuel and can cause a flame out (or non flame out as the case may be)
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turn up the idle
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rocco79 Wrote:turn up the idle
That's what would cure the problem of people hitting the gas trying to keep their cars running while they are upside down waiting on a marshal.
people feel like they gotta hit the gas to keep it running. TURN UP THE IDLE!
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Well so far I agree with everything everyone has said. I just thought it would be interesting to see other opinions and how other people would correct a flame out considering everyone experiences them from time to time including myself. And we all hate when it happens.
For me I believe engine tune based on weather conditions is the most critical to prevent flame outs and then having the correct glow plug with the proper heat range would be second. This would be after checking the basics of course like: no air leaks, no fuel leaks,
fuel supply tank condition, fuel line condition, quality fuel, fuel volume, proper working clutch and of course having the correct idle speed.
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Sunday was quite warm and humid and motors dont run well when humid air hits them. You can tune and tune all day, but if you dont have the proper plug for the weather conditions , its useless. Whenever its hot and Humid and/or warm and humid (like Sunday) you must run a Hotter plug then normal. this burns the miosture in the air better and makes it run better. Also you will have to lean out the motor alittle to compensate for the lack of oxygen in the humid air. Its not uncommon to have an engine temp in the 280-300 degree range when you do this, as long as it has fuel and blue smoke you are good to go. When its cold outside you must do the opposite, cold dry air has too much oxygen and leans out the motor, so you must run it richer than used too and use a cold plug or med plug. Because of this, operating temperature is harder and sometimes not reached and this leads to wear and tear on the motor, therefore you MUST find a way to get heat in the motor. Like wrapping up the head, sealing up holes in the body, etc.
I dont know what a Predator is but I do know that the TRX 2.5 is a finicky motor that is not the best running mill out there. Try a higher end motor and you should have better results.
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280 to 300?? Thats ok with good smoke??
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has always been fine for me too Roc
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Sometimes when the weather gets like that, thats the only way a motor will run correctly. If it has good smoke and some fuel coming from the pipe, its good to go. Thats when you put on the aftermarket head to cool it off some, after you tune with the stock head. You do this when there's alot of humidity in the air.
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Ohhhh Ok!! Cool. Thanks tex and the "Bushdocta" :bustingup
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Lots of good info guys!
Ive never had a flame out yet with my EB modded P5, but the problem I could never figure out, was over the hot summer I could not get it to run cooler like some peoples engines were.
Mine seemed to want to run at 260-280 no matter what I did. Even making it richer didnt help, now after reading this thread it makes more since, thanks guys!
Ive always told myself, that if you see smoke, dont worry about it, cause every temp gun Ive ever seen or used, gave different readings from the next.
So I tried not to worry too much about the temps, and just tuned for performance and smoke 
Now if I could just figure out why it starts running like crap half way though the race coming out of the turns 
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ALL turns? ALL the time? I read a very interesting article on lean bog associated with refueling during a race. And it was most noticeable when turning a given direction.
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eric, when my ebP5 was bogging out of the corners it was because the LSN was too lean. I richened up the LSN a total of about 1 1/2 turns and it had it's punch back.
Same thing as you, half way through the race and it started lean bogging out of the turns.
NR and RB motors like the LSN a little on the fat side. If you need more power, lean the top needle.
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Gabe,
Thanks for the info, I'll try to richen the LSN next time it does it and see if it helps.
I think I tried that before, but maybe I didnt go far enough, 1 1/2 turns? wow!
I'll do it in small amounts though, so I dont go too far and loose my tune.
Im going to look into my fuel tank too, it doesnt seem to close very tight.
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Hey its the amazing dissappering Eric!!!! Where you been E!!!! I havent been chasing your LSP lately... I almost feel lost! 
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rocco79 Wrote:Hey its the amazing dissappering Eric!!!! Where you been E!!!! I havent been chasing your LSP lately... I almost feel lost!
LOL, I took some time off from R/C.
We were using the boat as much as we could before the summer ended, and there were some other plans getting in the way of racing too.
That and all my brothers R/C stuff got stolen from his apartment awhile ago.
I'll be back racing for the last DD race though! :joy:
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Did they ever find the y d1ck that stole his stuff??? Did they get the lsp too?!?!
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Nope, they made it look good by dusting for finger prints and all, but thats as far as it went, I wonder if they even try to investagate sometimes 
Get this, they took everything R/C related, his tool box, fuel, chargers, even one of those plastic R/C Jeeps that matched his 1:1 scale that he had.... but the dumb a$$es left the actuall LSP on the kitchen table :bustingup
So all he has is the truck, thats it, better then nothing I guess.
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Id rather have it that way than not have my truck
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Yeah, it just sucks that he lost his new spektrum radio that was in his tool box along with his roto start, battery charger, glow ignitor, fuel, extra wheels/tires, extra LSP parts and a cordless dremel tool
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Ouch!!!
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