Custom Bodies by Czech-it-Out Graphics

[snakebite46]

LMAO.... I forgot to put the below freezing radio repair tax on my bill for you too.

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

LOL hey since when does the customer work on the auto also u wanna help me paint the bodies???? hahahhaha

[snakebite46]

LOL you mean dropping a bunch of screws and draining the battery ? =P


I'm sure I'd have no problem hacking up some bodies. I told ya I tried painting some bodies myself. So ugly, I wont even run them anywhere !!!

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

Here are some pics in the sunlight of the glitter bod and some mounted pics of my bodies

[snakebite46]

Good work Mike, ST-1 body looks wicked.

[Tex]

those bodies you did for yourself look great mounted up!

[cemeb4dk]

nice work Mike, also get your self some Monster truck 17mm max speed wheel stickers. Quit using buggy ones.....

[UE-Maxx]

They look real good.

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

lol shut up george....look what kinda tires are on that truggy lol big no no hahaha

thanks guys

[joey]

look sweet bro, great work as always

[Tex]

why the panthers? the Bowtie MT's and Crimes is all you need.......

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

the panthers are on their cuz i dont have anything else glued on white wheels lol I wouldnt run that crap anywhere anyways, Maifield gave them to johnny at CRCRC so i grabbed them form him before he started to run truggy lol

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

Happy 4th everyone alute:

This one is for Brian Szopinski (toughtrax)

[DAVEC-NITRO-RS4]

Did you paint those headlights?

[joey]

ya he did, looks like he used some binder hole renforcement stickers in there

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

yes i did thanks for telling me about the article Joe....LOL It was Josh Lagness little write up in RC CAR wanted to make them look like eyes

[joey]

ya i definatley encourage those who are interested in painting to read his articles on painting they are very well done and really helpful

[joey]

dude that body if fresh so good from every angle really well done bro yet again never cease to amaze me

[Toughtrax]

Mike that is F*&^ing awsome man I dont think that I could have thought of anything that I like better then what you just did.

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

awesome dude im am glad u like it, I wanted to atleast get one of urs done for the 4th . I have some shit i gotta get done this week and trhen i will do ur 1/10th scale body

[Toughtrax]

Not a problem man after seeing the first one I can wait for the little brother

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

should have some new bodies done in a couple hours along with a step by step write up on how they were done....

[UE-Maxx]

Awesome

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

Here is a step by step on how i did Ryan Maifield's bodies...

First step is to take the body and wash it with warm water and dish soap.

Next I use 4-5 coats of Parma's Fasmask (liquid masking film


Here is a picture of the templates I use when i do a body, I probably have hundreds of these. It really makes it easier to duplicate a previous paint scheme.


Here is what the body looks like after I have used my templates to re-trace the design onto the body with an Ultra Fine point sharpie.

This is a very crucial step in the process; you want to get ur lines as close to the "final drraft" as u can. That is the reason why i use an ultra fine point sharpie, because I am able to draw out the design and trace those lines with the Xacto knife and know that it is exactly what it will look like

Here are all 4 bodies that I will be working on all drawn up


Now its time to bust out a shiny new #11 blade for the Xacto knife and start cutting. I use a new blade for every body that I paint, a dull knife will give u poor lines. I cut out the intial design first, following the lines that I have drawn on the body. In this picture you can see that I used one of Josh's tips, holding the knife back as far as possible, it really helps to steady it out.


After I get everything cut out, I use some rubbing alcohol to wipe off the marker.




Now for the "fun" part--the pinstriping. This step takes a ton of practice and most of all patience. I probably spent a good 4-5hours cutting the pinstriping on these 4 bodies. If you take your time and do it right, the results will be excellent.



After cutting the pinstripe on all of the bodies, I peal out the mask over the pinstriped area




Who says paintings not dangerous, here is a nice example of what happens when u cut out designs late at night and drop the Xacto knife into ur leg


Now its time to paint, here are some pics of my cheesy "paint booth" aka my basement lol

my iwata airbrush

The paint

the music

the compressor

and my work bench, got a little bored and added some skulls to this one lol


Now to start the actual painting, I started out by painting the pinstripe faskrome satin. I used 1 light coats and one moderate coat followed by a coat of faswhite to seal in the color.





after a quick shot with the hair dryer, I next pealed the mask off the areas where i was going to paint the carbon fiber


For the carbon fiber I use faspearl charcoal and faspearl black, this gives u a nice subtle look, u can do this effect with a number of different colors.


here u can see the different sizes of drawer liner that i have cut out over time and saved


I start by spraying the charcoal through the matting first then backing it with faspearl black




Next I peal off the trim around the windows and paint them with 2-3 light coats of fasflourescent pink



then i back the pink with a coat of white


After this paint dries, I put the bodies in the refrigerator, yes the refrigerator lol. I believe it was Aaron walker who told me about puting the bodies in front of a fan to cool the mask off, but i took it one step further lol. When the mask is cool, it is much easier to peal off large section of it in one piece without pulling away any paint.


while the bodies are in the fridge I take the time to clean out the small bucket of water i use to rinse my airbrush in b/w colors. An ice bucket out of a hotel room works well



Now that the main portion of the tribal flames is uncovered its time to paint the pink shadow along the edge.

For this step i remove the small crown cap that protects the needle of the airbrush so that I can get closer to the body, I also turn down the air pressure to about 20-25


Before I do any painting, I use a dryer sheet and rub it on the outside of the body to get rid of any static that may have built up since i washed the bodies.


I do three light coats of pink, the first one u can barely see, each coat makes the color progressively darker. This is a good way to build up the color into the shade u want.


after those coats have dried i back that with 2 coats of faswhite.


Next, I put the bodies back in the fridge. After they are nice and cool I peal off the section for the skulls and chrome rips.


This next step is really difficult and also takes a considerable amount of patience. I use fasblack to put a shadow on all of the flames. I try to make it all even however it is difficult because of the contours of the body; doesnt help that it was about 4am when i was doin this either. Again i have the crown cap off the airbrush and the psi at about 20

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

Here is a picture of the Craig Fraiser Skullmaster stencils that I will be using, these are a bit pricey but very good in quality and can be cleaned with any solvents

and here is a picture of the paint i will be using the paint the skulls, I used about half a paint cup (paint cup of the airbrush) of white and 2 drops of black. you can go with white or just about any shade of grey for this.

now to fit the stencil into the body, this is tricky as u dont want to scratch any paint off while bending the stencil; it has some sharp edges on it.


u can get a nice combo of soft and hard edges with the stencil

After the skulls are painted on the whole body its time for the chrome; I think the Alclad II laquer is the best however its a bit pricey at 8$ a bottle.



After u paint the chrome, you have to back it with a waterbase black to get a realistic look.


Here is a picture of the final mask pealed back


Now I take faswhite and lightly mist the rips


Now for the carbon fiber look in the back, I use Fasblue and fasescent blue. I spray the fasescent blue through the matting first.


then i back it up with the fasblue


Now you can either back everything in white or just spray the clear. Since i had to ship these out right away I skipped the white and backed them.


Now the bodies are just about finished all thats left is to let the enamel dry and re cut the window lines; peal the mask of the windows and pull the film off the body.

and the finished product