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general revo discussion
Yeah... I will check... I think I am going lock to lock on the servo without hitting anything so I may even be ok. I'm not sure though... I remember the wheels weren't hitting and the steering linkage wasn't either...
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What's the S Grid web site?
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http://www.rcracing.com
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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Thanks!
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no problem
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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FreeRideJunkie Wrote:Yeah... I will check... I think I am going lock to lock on the servo without hitting anything so I may even be ok. I'm not sure though... I remember the wheels weren't hitting and the steering linkage wasn't either...

Remember, eventually even the pivot balls in the hubs will be an end stop if the servo goes that far.
got paint?
Colors by Dave - CBD
1-29-07 ... you know.
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that's where the dremel gets taken out and starts tearing into the knuckles to give them more clearance on the pillowballs. That's another Steve Slayden trick for all you suckas
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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After removing the dust boots.....

Hey, does anyone who owns a Revo have an experience on what's better for rear toe links and push rods....Traxxas red stuff, or Lunsford Ti stuff.
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for turnbuckles get the traxxas tubes. Lunsford ones bend way to easy. Pushrods ive have great luck with the red ones as well. Lunsford makes great parts but there turnbuckles suck. Every few weeks i would be sending all 4 back for replacements.
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Ryan, thanks. I wanna get the strongest rear suspension parts I can find. Being the slowest guy out there SUCKS!!!
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traxxas tubes rule. As light as the titanium, and tons stronger. Red pushrods will work if you dont crash a lot like hitting a wall or another car head on.
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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Again, I am aminly worried about getting tagged from a following truck. I have the red p-rods f/r already. The toe links are what get smacked first from behind.
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You'll be fine. Racers won't intentially rear end you hard enough to break parts. Very rare. I'm still using the factory toe links. Haven't bent one yet, and I don't even run rear bumper.
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I am gun shy from it happening first time out. Bent one link and broke two arms.
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I would say that is not the norm. I am not running bumpers and have had no problems...
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Anyone using the Ballistic batteries 2500 mah reciever pack? It's $40.00 for the battery pack and a different battery/reciever box.
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Do you have a link?? If it as a different box I am curious to see how it mounts and/or how much trimming I would have to do...
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im using the team helotes battery pack. Its 2600mah. Packs a lot of power and seems to last forever. I got this pack end of november, early december. Ran it as the cash race at newberries and havent charged it from the time i got it till just last night. Only 1100 mah went back into the pack. Talk about some serious runtime. Thats almost 2 months without a charge and for all the misc rc stuff i did i barely got the pack half way down. Im ready for my 3 hour main now.
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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o ya http://www.teamhelotes.com.
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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http://www.ballisticbatteries.com
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has anybody every used the ofna 17mm hex adapters? I plan on running that size so i can swap tires for both my new trucks. Anyone have experience with these?
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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Shinner had some for sale at one time. He might know.
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How much is the battery pack you are running ryan?? I like the idea of not having to charge it during the track day. I generally need to charge mine after qualifying...
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http://www.teamhelotes.com/users/main/catalog/i71.html.
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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did 4 tanks in practice, 3 8minute qualifying, and 15 minute main and its still got more then a half a charge on it. For runtime im also getting like about 12 minutes a tank with the 2.5r.
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