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Jammin Trug nearly finished.
#1
I've nearly gotten this thing finished. I need to paint the shell. I was wondering what the majority of people were using tirewise at Leisure for their truggies. I was there, but really was in awe of the place that I didn't pay attention to that.

Here are a couple quick pics.

[Image: crt1.jpg]
[Image: crt2.jpg]
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#2
Looks good so far, how did your build go for you?
"I'm always amazed to hear of air crash victims so badly mutilated that they have to be identified by their dental records. What I can't understand is, if they don't know who you are, how do they know who your dentist is?"
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#3
looks good. seems like people were using bow ties or i think switches
Kanai K3
Kanai K2
LSP-R project
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#4
Honestly, it was quite a bit easier to build than my Hyper7PCRpro. There were a couple little errors in the manual. Mostly along the lines of a screw in the picture, but not on the 'hardware needed' box, also once or twice, a screw indicated in this box was a different than the one shown in the picture.
I got angry and was convinced that OFNA screwed me when I couldn't find the front toe-plate (hinge pin retainer). For the 1st 4 or so steps in the manual, everything needed was together in one bag. This thing was in bag 5. That was the only time during the build where a part needed wasn't in a bag you had allready opened.
When putting together the front steering ackerman, I was to put a screw/post through to the bellcranks in order to hold the ackerman. Two flanged ball bearings are used on the drag link. I had a hell of a time getting the screw/post through the ball bearing. The screw seemed to have an excess of it's protective hard-coating/oxide finish. I ended up needing to get "caveman" on it. To make a long story shorter, I have to buy another bearing as I cracked the flange off it and made the retaining ring come off. The plastic bushing will be ok for now.
When I was attaching the front hub carriers to the arms, I noticed that the fit was a bit too tight, I had to remove a small amount of material from the end of the lower arms with fine grit sandpaper; all is now swell.
All of these minute issues are common among most ANY kit. Over the years I've come to expect a burp here and there. IMO, it adds to the challenge and fun of putting it together all by yourself.
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#5
Looks expensive.
Mugen MBX5T Prospec
RB C6bb/O.S. Speed
Hitec 5955
Futaba s9351
Jr Z-1
http://www.frontlinetec.com

Soo easy a cave man can drive it Mooooooooooogen
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#6
Wow... with racing back up at LH I keep getting thoughts of dumping the revo and getting a trug. Very nice...
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#7
Dump the Revo and add $1000 and you're good to go......
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#8
That is the problem. I think I am just going to slowly add the $1000 to the revo. lol PLus I think a MT is a better bash vehicle... (I know I know... the trugs are indestructable)
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#9
Quote:... (I know I know... the trugs are indestructable)

but Revos don't break.
FS-Sportwerks 1/8 Hauler
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#10
You have 2 os .21 v specs black wolf?
Mugen MBX5T Prospec
RB C6bb/O.S. Speed
Hitec 5955
Futaba s9351
Jr Z-1
http://www.frontlinetec.com

Soo easy a cave man can drive it Mooooooooooogen
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#11
no... seling one to me right.. hehe... must be nice. That would destroy a revo trans though...
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#12
Ya that will mess your world up with the revo.
Mugen MBX5T Prospec
RB C6bb/O.S. Speed
Hitec 5955
Futaba s9351
Jr Z-1
http://www.frontlinetec.com

Soo easy a cave man can drive it Mooooooooooogen
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#13
thats coming out real nice....
looking for something new to buy.... like a lst2 or something let me know what u got..................
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#14
Here are some newer pictures. I just have to paint the body. I'd be willing to pay to have it painted. Anybody up for the job? That other VSPEC was for the Mayhem buggy.

[Image: crt_need_paint1.jpg]
[Image: crt_need_paint2.jpg]
[Image: crt_need_paint3.jpg]
[Image: crt_need_paint4.jpg]
[Image: crt_need_paint5.jpg]
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#15
hit up mike czech, hes a local guy that does awesoem work, he has a thread in the offroad section. Killer paint and a nice guy.


P.S. The truck looks good, hope you can make it out to lh to run
A friend will help you move, but a REAL friend will help you move a body.
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#16
im going to get one of those but not till summer i think, maybe something better depends what new truggies come out by then.
K3- C5 rody mod, custom gears, KDZ hop ups.

soon *- TTR EB4 S3, ACE servos, RB C5BB, TTR option hop ups, KDZ hop ups.
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#17
Ok, finally got it done. I'm not sure whether I should cut a larger hole in the front windshield for fuel or a smaller one and another hole in the left side window. Any ideas?

-i can't wait-

[Image: jamminx1crt0.jpg]
[Image: jamminx1crt1.jpg]
[Image: jamminx1crt3.jpg]
[Image: jamminx1crt4.jpg]
[Image: jamminx1crt5.jpg]
[Image: jamminx1crt6.jpg]
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#18
cemeb4dk Wrote:hit up mike czech, hes a local guy that does awesoem work, he has a thread in the offroad section. Killer paint and a nice guy.


P.S. The truck looks good, hope you can make it out to lh to run

I'm going to have a talk to him next time I have another body to paint. I was just too impatient this time around. My fault.
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#19
Is that a .21 engine your using (sorry if I missed it)? I'm running a .28 in mine but I wonder what would be better for racing.
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#20
most truggies are fueled thru the drivers window. You have to cut a hole in the front windshield for the tank lid pull to come out, you also want some holes for ventilation to the airfilter and engine cooling
A friend will help you move, but a REAL friend will help you move a body.
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#21
Looks like a fun ride. I agree with George you will need a hole in the windshield for fueling and ventalation. I would like to add that the drivers side window be cut out for easier fueling too.
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#22
Looks real good.
FS-Sportwerks 1/8 Hauler
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#23
that looks real good i now i wanna get a truggie
looking for something new to buy.... like a lst2 or something let me know what u got..................
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#24
Alot of people with CRT's are using a savage gas tank and fueling it through the front window with the "pull" coming out the rear window
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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#25
RCDad Wrote:Is that a .21 engine you’re using (sorry if I missed it)? I'm running a .28 in mine but I wonder what would be better for racing.

Yes, that’s an OS vspec. I didn't have a chance or the funds to get an engine such as a .28. I'm guessing it will run ok. If I remember, back a couple months ago I saw in RCCA, a guy was winning races with a vspec in his CRT. Soo.. For now, I think it will be ok.

cemeb4dk Wrote:most truggies are fueled thru the drivers window. You have to cut a hole in the front windshield for the tank lid pull to come out, you also want some holes for ventilation to the airfilter and engine cooling

Now that I think about it, you're right. The fuel bottle goes through the 'driver’s side' window while the fuel cap lanyard goes through the windshield. I shall commence the cutting.

Tex Wrote:Alot of people with CRT's are using a savage gas tank and fueling it through the front window with the "pull" coming out the rear window

That's something to keep in mind. There's one thing that is neat with the fuel tank on this truck; you can take off the tank's cap and rotate it 180 degrees so that it opens by pulling on it the way you described. Quite innovative.
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