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T-maxx Help
#1
I didn't get much race time yesterday at LH, cuz my maxx kept breaking
so i have come to the conclusion that i need to upgrade. for some reason i
seem to be twisting the out drive axles on a stock 2.5 motor.also i have broken both front and rear drive shafts.parts are cheep ya but downtime is not raceing.
also i striped the screws of of the planitary gear on the diff.thats a part on the maxx you cant fix asap in a race,so thats another area to be upgraded
i am hopeing someone can help steer me in the right direction, so i don't purchase the wrong parts.
any advice and links would be apreciated.:joy:
Gary Wright
President
http://www.midwestnitro.com
"Keeping Racing Simple"
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#2
http://www.ueusa.net

I run their diffs, diff cases, and Ti center cvd's. I am using MIP cvd's, but would have bought ue if I had the cash at the time.
FS-Sportwerks 1/8 Hauler
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#3
what pipe do u have on there, i cant belive you are twisting half shafts like that...
8ight | Mini-T | CEN Boat | Stampede | JR R-1

ALL RC STUFF FOR SALE. PM FOR DETAILS.
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#4
Gary... Are you landing jumps on power???? Cuz that might be the problem. Stock parts i would think are tough enough
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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#5
yeah, cuz I could see twisting a slider every once in a while, heck I've even broken pins in the trans with the stock motor, but never anything with the diffs.
8ight | Mini-T | CEN Boat | Stampede | JR R-1

ALL RC STUFF FOR SALE. PM FOR DETAILS.
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#6
i still have the stock pipe on. thats why i am so confused!
the only mode i made recently is a new fuil tank. which did make a diferance.
i insalled a ofna 9.5 tank nexto the trans,which did seem to give more power and run time,about 10 min,if it wouldn't keep breaking.
as far as on power landings i realy don't think so. i do know better than to do that, but i have done stupid stuff before.i will make a efort to be more aware next time, to be shure!

i realy don't want to invest alot of money in this truck, cuz it's only temparary till i get something else. i'm hopeing new axles,driveshafts,and just the diffs will get me by.
i found a diff on ebay made by maximizer but it's like $70!!
WAY TOO MUCH!
Gary Wright
President
http://www.midwestnitro.com
"Keeping Racing Simple"
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#7
Sell and get a revo! lmao...Or you could...Hm..Drive slower? Tisk tisk, what was I thinking lol...
Tekno EB48.4 HobbyWing XR8 Sanwa M12
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#8
sell the maxx

na!!

my son will be raceing it this summer

kicken all of the revo guys butts !! LMOL LMOL
Gary Wright
President
http://www.midwestnitro.com
"Keeping Racing Simple"
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#9
just playing
Gary Wright
President
http://www.midwestnitro.com
"Keeping Racing Simple"
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#10
LMOL? What's that mean?
Tekno EB48.4 HobbyWing XR8 Sanwa M12
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#11
My best guess is with rocco that they are on power landings. Maxx's are notorious for that...
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#12
would loosening the slipper just a lil help??? I know maxxs are good for melting the spur if the slipper is too loose... But maybe it will be just enough to help all the parts to survive

Gary... Im having the same problem with my savage and i think i found the problem.... Are you running a stock throttle servo????? Cuz im runnning the stock streering servo for my throttle and i think whats causing my dogbone twisting is the servo is just to slow to react to what my trigger finger says. I think that even though you annd i are off the gas, i think the slow servo hasnt yet returned to neutral, causing the drivetrain issues... Think about it
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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#13
rocco i think that is it..i had a faster servo before and i had no problems when landing but it broke and i put on a stock one on and i have nuttin but power landing problems
looking for something new to buy.... like a lst2 or something let me know what u got..................
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#14
see ! I knew it! Time to put my ace servo in! 180 oz @.08!!! That ought to do it!
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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#15
Sounds like you and Rocco are onto something with the servo speed. I ran stock outdrive with the 2.5 for an entire season with no problems. The only thing I ever noticed was my stock center drive shafts would twist.

Supermaxx Predator Lite Race Maxx
Supermaxx Thunder Big-Block Race Truck
GS Storm SUT CE Native Racing Truck
Mugen MBX5T
Mugen MBX5R
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#16
yea im almost 100% thats it..well atleast for me..lol..i gotta get a new one real fast i dont like the landings im getting
looking for something new to buy.... like a lst2 or something let me know what u got..................
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#17
being new to raceing t-maxx, i kinda figured you guys could figure out the prob. i have the tourqe servo from my spectrum installed for the gas+brake
what you say makes perfict sence,never thought of it.
Gary Wright
President
http://www.midwestnitro.com
"Keeping Racing Simple"
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#18
I think you just need to loosen the slipper another 1/4 turn. You can get driveshafts and diffs (all stock, from a new truck) on ebay for pretty cheap. (like $50 total). I would go that route for the cheapest fix (since it's temparary anyway). Just replace what is messed up on your ride with stock stuff and loosen the slipper more. Then you can still correct your truck in the air and land on throttle and the slipper will just slip taking the beating. I can help you with a slipper setting next time at the track.

If you think $70 for a diff is alot then you are in for a surprise. To make a maxx bulletproof costs A TON of cash. Good CVDs, Diffs, tranny gears, center CVDs, anything drivetrain will run you around $300-400 used for just drivetrain components.


Just buy a revo!
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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#19
i think i'll go that rout TEX. the more i think of it, i'm so used to driveing a buggy that when i land off a jump it's habit to nail the throtle right away.
i just need to take it a little easyer and just keep a few extra parts like you said.the stock stuff is lighter anyway,and in budget.
Gary Wright
President
http://www.midwestnitro.com
"Keeping Racing Simple"
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#20
Yeah the stock drivetrain stuff can last awhile with a SB motor. Like many gallons sometimes. I have twisted driveshafts and blown diffs in my t-maxx with a 2.5 but I always ran my slipper all the way tight so I had the most grab. When I got a revo I did the same thing, tightened the slipper all the way. Big mistake I was blowing drivetrain components all over the place. I loosened the slipper and now everything is holding up alot better. It was tricky at first to find the best setting. The other thing that blows diffs is a brake setting set up to aggresssive, the diffs take all the punishment.
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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#21
Tex were you blowing drivetrain stuff on your revo with the 2.5 or the BB
8ight | Mini-T | CEN Boat | Stampede | JR R-1

ALL RC STUFF FOR SALE. PM FOR DETAILS.
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#22
I was speaking of a t-maxx mainly....when i did reference blowing drivetrain in the revo it was with a BB and locked slipper.
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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#23
oh, ok.
8ight | Mini-T | CEN Boat | Stampede | JR R-1

ALL RC STUFF FOR SALE. PM FOR DETAILS.
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#24
i'll be going to my local hobbie shop tonight and was thinking maybee changing the spur gear to a diferent ratio.
right now it's stock.
should i ?
or any sugestions
Gary Wright
President
http://www.midwestnitro.com
"Keeping Racing Simple"
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#25
depends, do you need more low end or top end? or is the power suited well with your drive style?
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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