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Czech-it-Out Graphics Wrote:i dunno i got a bunch of them for free from RC Car they were throwing them away, so i dunno if DEANS makes them anymore
Found one!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti...LXRD92&P=0
-KEVIN
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Dave, where you've been? Painting those mini bodies?
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07-10-2006, 09:27 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-10-2006, 11:10 AM by DAVEC-NITRO-RS4.)
Well, yesterday got the new shocks built and installed, the new motor broken-in and mounted. Picked up new rear tires, so I need to glue them up.
Still need skinny foams for the fronts.
Then the wiring chores begin. Who can recommend a good, reasonable priced soldering iron setup suitable for use with Dean's connectors?
Last "funny" thing...yesterday at HobbyTown I saw a brand new B3 kit that I could have bought for less than I have into this project....oh well.
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DAVEC-NITRO-RS4 Wrote:Then the wiring chores begin. Who can recommend a good, reasonable priced soldering iron setup suitable for use with Dean's conenctors?
If you go to a hardware store, look for a soldering pencil instead of an actual "gun". I am sure you can probably pick one up for cheap.
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LH has one for $6 that can solder deans plugs on in less than 6 minutes of plugging it in. I don't know what the name is though, but I'll be picking on up soon.
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try to get one that is 60W or better. They get hotter and makes the chore alot easier. It should be less than $10
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Thanks gentlemen. 60w pencil type it is. Radio Shack tonight!
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pencils are not usually that high wattage, I have mine from college that is 25w but its meant for smaller electronics. I use my portable butane weller most of the time cause I hate wires hanging around when I am working and my kids walk past. Its alot more money to get the butane one but I think its worth it. I just finished soldereing new wires and batts up for the MLST and it works flawlessly.
The fleet:
LST2(His): LRP Z.28R Spec.3, Full Carbon Fiber and all the goodies - $Too much
T-Maxx(Hers): Modded TRX2.5, Full RPM, Some REVO goodies $Borderline
XXX-NT AD2(His): Modded LRP.18S Pro, Graphite and Aluminium $Great deal
Losi Mini-LST(His): Insane Motors, converting to aluminium $Why not
X-Ray M18MT(Hers): Tekin 5.4Kv BL, 3Racing all around, Custom 8.4V $Dont ask
Watching her T-Maxx still running after I broke all of mine....$Priceless
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yeah..45w was the highest I was finding at RS and Sears...should be fine.
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I have a butane one from RS, works great, but now the tip for it is like a little mound, not a point, oh and the part that holds the butane cracked so now I have to get a new one.
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I have a portable Weller that I will give away, those suck ass IMO.
I bought my 60W iron at Al's for $7.99
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test
Time for a saftey meeting!!
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ok electric guys...last nite I got it all connected and ran this thing a little.
The wires between the battery and the ESC got warm-hot, but no other wires got even warm. The buggy did run.
What's your quess? What other info do you need? Who has a cheap (read "free") ESC they want to donate to see if the one I have is no good.
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How about some pictures of it completed, Dave?
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It's just temped up. I didn't wanna hardwire too much in case something was DOA. I haven't painted a body for it yet, either. Picture today looks sorta like the first picture in the thread .
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Dave what do you mean by hot, The wires from the battery to the esc do get a little warm from running it.
How about the esc was that hot or warm?
I used to race electric so if you need any help lmk and I'll try to help ya out
"I'm always amazed to hear of air crash victims so badly mutilated that they have to be identified by their dental records. What I can't understand is, if they don't know who you are, how do they know who your dentist is?"
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I didn't run it for more than a minute or so, and the wires between the battery and the ESC were prolly above 140 degrees. Output from the ESC and the ESC itself were not that warm, much cooler really.
I'm running a 21x2 motor.
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the wires from batt to esc will be the first things to warm up. Then the motor wires will be second along with the motor can. The ESC will get a bit warm also in most cases. Nothing besides the motor can should be HOT though.
Gearing is huge in electric running and keeping everything cool.
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Tex is right gearing in electric is key to keeping your motor and esc nice and cool, but if your wires are around 140 for just running it for a min or two then I would say that something is up. It shouldn't get that hot at all for that short amount of time.
What kind of batt are you useing and how many cells also what type of connectors are you useing on you battery and esc
What do the batteries feel like after you run it?
"I'm always amazed to hear of air crash victims so badly mutilated that they have to be identified by their dental records. What I can't understand is, if they don't know who you are, how do they know who your dentist is?"
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7.2V 6cell stick Nicad
Tamiya connector from batt to ESC (haven't soldered the Dean's on yet)
Batt is cool when wire are warm
Heatsink on ESC is cool
I'm gonna test it again with the temp gun handy for accurate data.
I know no-load test will be less strain due to gearing, so I'm gonna do a wheels up test also.
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Does it get hot when it is just plugged in? Like if it just sits there with out moving does it get hot? Thats what happened my EVX went bad in my E-Maxx.
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