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I finally got that XXX-NT running around with that LRP.18. I readjusted everything from the seller as it was obviously out of his league to build that car and he did a really crap job on most parts. but..I cant seem to get the brakes to hammer down. I am using a 590Z and it pulls the rod all the way and I see it putting alot of pressure on that fiber disk but the brakes suck. It was a little wet out on Sunday and I was driving it with no brakes whatsoever, I had to slide the tail around to stop it so I parked it for the day. Any tricks out there that anyone knows of.
Oh and btw, its a really fun little truck with a sick over powered motor in it and all that graphite looks awesome on it. however, graphite and the neighbors truck tire have had some foul words at lunch today and my truck got its arse kicked by it.....lol. Graphite doesnt bend really well :owned:
Pics of the new body and truck when it stands on all 4 of its own tires again. :joy:
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its brand new
since its carbon, does it have to heat up a bit for it to hold properly. I will tear it apart tonight since I just broke the front shock tower at lunch time
The fleet:
LST2(His): LRP Z.28R Spec.3, Full Carbon Fiber and all the goodies - $Too much
T-Maxx(Hers): Modded TRX2.5, Full RPM, Some REVO goodies $Borderline
XXX-NT AD2(His): Modded LRP.18S Pro, Graphite and Aluminium $Great deal
Losi Mini-LST(His): Insane Motors, converting to aluminium $Why not
X-Ray M18MT(Hers): Tekin 5.4Kv BL, 3Racing all around, Custom 8.4V $Dont ask
Watching her T-Maxx still running after I broke all of mine....$Priceless
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You didn't happen to get any oil on it did you? I know mine was really flaky when it was new. When wet, it doesn't work at all. Putting the brakes together on that thing were a biotch!
I just ran a xxx-nt rtr (my first RC 6 years ago). I ran it for about 2 years, just bashing. I'd suggest getting a aluminum rear pivot block and the RRP diff gear. Especially with a hot engine in it. With just an os 15 cv-r, I went through diff gears about once a weekend. After replacing with RRP, it lasted about 8 gallons and still looked new.
As for the brakes, I ran the stock cheapo servo and it would lock up the rear tires pretty easily. I wonder if the NT2 has a different disk the the RTR. Might want to try the RTR disk if it is different.
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thanks olds.......
haha, I love Monty python
The fleet:
LST2(His): LRP Z.28R Spec.3, Full Carbon Fiber and all the goodies - $Too much
T-Maxx(Hers): Modded TRX2.5, Full RPM, Some REVO goodies $Borderline
XXX-NT AD2(His): Modded LRP.18S Pro, Graphite and Aluminium $Great deal
Losi Mini-LST(His): Insane Motors, converting to aluminium $Why not
X-Ray M18MT(Hers): Tekin 5.4Kv BL, 3Racing all around, Custom 8.4V $Dont ask
Watching her T-Maxx still running after I broke all of mine....$Priceless
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Salsaking you don't need the alum rear pivot block. I broke the stock plastic one after a horrible landing on cement, replaced it with the graphite and haven't had a problem since(pretty hard bashing to!!!)
IT'S ALL ABOUT THE PAIN; THE INK AND THE JEWELRY ARE JUST SOUVENIERS
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for the 4th time, graphite is WEAKER than plastic, plastic bends, graphite doesn't. You have just had good luck since you installed that Tommy.
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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Yeah... I broke a bunch of both graphite and composite parts. Including the pivot block.
BTW, it was princess bride. I hate the monty...
