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engine break in + clutch ?
#1
i read the thread on here but what do you reccomend for a peak diablo .15...

also how do you guys have your clutch setup is it leading edge or trailing edge. thanks for the help
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#2
as far as the break in goes, i would use the heat cycle method.

this is how I break my engines in and they last a long time.

idle for 1 tank keeping temps above 190* put tin foil and a sock around the cooling head to get the temps up. let it cool for 10-15 minutes. then do the second and third tank do figure 8's of gonig only 1/4 throttle. after second tank let cool again make sure its at BDC then after third tank jsut refuel, DONT LET IT STALL. then the fourth and fith tank do runs up and down the street gradually getting up to 1/2 throttle, then let off and break slowly, then go to the track and take it easy for another 4 or so tanks before running it hard. or if you stay at home and break it in then for the sixth tank gradually get up to 3/4 throttle and slowly break, then for seventh tank gradually get up to full throttle then let off and break slowly. then for the eighth tank take the sock and tin foil off and tune it till it gets up to temp and just dirve like you would at the track, but dont blip it, just roll on and off the throttle. try to keep temps between 200-240* at all times

as far as clutch goes, not sure.
Losi 8ight with v-spec[SIZE="4"]
[/SIZE]
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#3
never juse idle an engine for break in. Just drive it very very slow at first and each tank take it slightly faster. Keep temps 200 minimum and just take it slow for the first 4-5 tanks.
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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#4
why not let it idle for a tank?

many many guys i know idle for the first 1-3 tanks
Losi 8ight with v-spec[SIZE="4"]
[/SIZE]
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#5
Hmm...Ive always ran a couple tanks at the house just to get the thing to move (very rich) then track time from there...I never do the death rev thing.

Just be easy with it and dont run too rich. If its spitting fuel lean er out. Look for smoke.

And clutch is trailing edge for pretty much every one.

MBX5T - O.S.
MBX5R - Novarossi
Nomadio
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#6
ok thanks for the help. my package with my motor will be here todau but usps has a crappy tracking service so i dont know when my reciever battery will be here
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#7
You dont want to just idle an engine because the piston and sleeve are trying to fit together. You want to just really drive it normal but take that down a notch and nothing to really stress the motor the first 4-5 tanks. Its fine to hit full throttle in the 2nd tank but only for a second and then let off.
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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#8
idle the first tank itll be fine
Here is a link to my website-
http://www.czech-it-out-graphics.com
1/29/07 never forget....TTT Confusedalute:
Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you

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#9
why idle it? Whats the point?
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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#10
because when you idle it if the temps are between 200-235* then by idling for a tnak your only letting the RPM's get up to 3000-4000 and thats about as low as you can go, plus when an engine idles it loads up with fuel, which = more lubrication. you dont have to idle, but idling is NOT bad for an engine

as long as temps are kept between 200-235
Losi 8ight with v-spec[SIZE="4"]
[/SIZE]
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#11
Its a .15, break in 2 tanks with heat of about 180 degrees and tune it to race. I wouldnt idle anything, put it on blocks and feed throttle at different RPM's, dont scream it either. You dont need to use a strict break-in method for a small block motor.
T-T-T Confusedalute:
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#12
ok i got everything together and i couldnt get it started. im going to figure this out in the morning its too damn cold out.
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#13
well i looked over all the stuff i have for the truck and im missing a collet and spacer so i ordered that and will try agaon on monday
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#14
it works i went out to leisure hours and picked up my stuff. and man those are some great guys out there they were very helpful
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