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i currently run 20% nitro i was thinking about switching to byrons 30% would i need to reshim the engine for this. and should i switch to byrons 30%
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no, you should switch to Werks 30%!!!!
Im not positive, but I dont think you have to re/add a shim, I was told I didnt have to on my RB ws7III, I am just using w/e came stock, nothing added, and it runs like a dream with Werks 30% and RB #6 or #7 plugs
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I like both Byrons and Werks. Werks was easier to tune and got a little bit better run times.
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you dont need to reshim they are setup for 30
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just a thought the more power the harder to turn fast lap times. thats why most of us run 21's in our truggy's. back in the day the stock 2 wheel class carried more corner speed than the mod class. although if you dont care about racin the extra power is alot of fun when beatin up on your buds. i think jimbo,john,cory and i had more fun indoor beatin on each other on friday night practice nights than chad ever had fertilizing chickens.
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strange.....i always knew you guys were up to something on fridays when you kept asking me to go then.......
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30% = more power less engine life
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my gawd... A hotmod 528.... I dont even know what you would do with that... Im pretty sure that make more power than the motor in czechys woody!
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eb mod thats where its at!
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im thinking about going with the stock 528 but im not sure yet
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if you want a used eb mod one i can hook ya up
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no ill pass. should i go hotmod or stock for the 528
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stock
only 2 gallons lemme know if u know anyone thats interested
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will do
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Czech-it-Out Graphics Wrote:if you want a used eb mod one i can hook ya up ? is this one also blown up?:p:
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god ur a doosh bag
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calmer than you
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JMO from what little I know about running the engines I have, 1 RB and 2 Novarossi, they all run really well, but have different power curve characteristics, the RBws7III seems to be the smoothest to me, but for a short/technical track the top .21bf has serious low end torque, the NR 21+5 seems like a top end mill, in fact, It just kept hitting a rev limit wall due to the fact that I dont have a top end pipe, it just didnt feel right with the pipesets I have, but I like the RB the best with a #6 plug and Werks fuel, it just doesnt flame it seems, an awesome engine indeed, it seems to be very linear, its easy to drive it slow and steady, but has SERIOUS balls to get down them straights, and respectable low end grunt if paired with a good pipeset, my point is after reading all that, is that even someone new in this sport can tell you a modded engine isnt really needed, especially a NR 528, stock up on tires and drivetrain parts, thats for sure.......modded engines are not needed for racing, I dont think its worth the $...buy a stock RB,OS, or Novarossi and pair it with a good pipeset, plug, and good fuel.......you wont need more than that. JM.02
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I've got a hot-mod 528xr and honestly I'm dissapointed at the power difference between a hot-mod 528xr and a regular 528xr. That said, the 528xr's are VERY strong engines. Too much torque for a buggy, and with my CRT Pro it is nearly uncontrollable. Certainly it is a very powerful engine, but I'm not quite sure its worth the $50 price tag increase over a stock 528xr to me. The mods are very minimal with no work to the crank at all. Only minor work to the sleeve. I couldn't see any cut marks on the crank or crank case.
Go with the stock engine.
I think I can go faster though, I'm running a 8mm venturi, and I'm also running a warmer plug still (from break-in). I could go to the 9mm venturi, and a medium, or medium cold plug. I'm also only running 20% through the engine.
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man u should see the EB version, drilled and epoxy rammed crank, tons of port work etc
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Czech-it-Out Graphics Wrote:man u should see the EB version, drilled and epoxy rammed crank, tons of port work etc I may send this engine out for port work over the winter. I'm not happy with the port work from hot mods, even though the engine still screams with the smaller venturi and 20% fuel I don't feel that its appreciably faster than a stock 528xr.
I know that porting is not all about who can remove the most metal, but where and how its removed. But I am dissapointed. This engine was given to me for a very good price because of a warranty issue with my first 528xr, but I won't be buying it again.
In fact, I'll probably be building all of my cars into electric lipo/brushless cars. No mess, no tuning. Though I deal with other shortcomings instead. Good and bad things about electric, I just think a high end brushless electric setup would suit me more.
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it will be going into my crt and ill be running 20% fuel or maybe 25% not sure yet. im pretty much set on the stock one
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30% is the way to go, thats what these engines are set up for out of the box. With the higher deck height the performance will not be as good
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so its shimmed for 30% also is my p5xs shimmed for 30% i want to run 30 but i wasnt sure about it.
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yes just about every motor is shimmed for 30% out of the box at the very MOST they need a .01mm shim; if they need one itll come with it
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