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rust on the crank is it normal
#1
i removed the backplate on my engine and i noticed rust on the crank is it normal. its a light coating.

[Image: engine%20001.jpg]
[Image: engine%20002.jpg]
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#2
never had that in any of my engines....
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#3
You obiously got some moisture in there somehow. Has it been sitting? Nitro will atract moisture.
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#4
not really i run it once every other week and ive been using after run engine oil.
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#5
what fuel
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#6
trinity platinum. me and my friend were just talking and we think we had a bad gallon inbetween us because he was having flame out issues with his car.
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#7
switch to something like byrons, OD, or werks. for taking the back plate off there is no oil in that motor; you wont need afterrun with a different fuel. trinity is crap
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#8
well i wont run od but im looking into byrons or werks. my only problem is driving 45 minutes to get a golon
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#9
I run byrons, and my engines are an oily mess, I doubt I would need after-run
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
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#10
well, there are 2 main culprits to rust.

moisture

letting nitro sit in the motor


never store ur r/c in ur car, garage, basement or anywhere moist or antwhere condensation is likely to build.

after running ur nitro car for the day. completly empty the fuel tank, start r/c to burn any remaining fuel in the lines and motor, put a few dropps of afterrun oil into head and crank it over several times to work it into motor, barrings, crank...etc, plug the stinger on the exhaust pipe, keep motor clean...leaving it dirty allows moisture to sit on it and work its way in.



these are steps you can take to keep ur motor from rusting but they are not fool proof. the problem is that moisture in the air from day to day differs and always gets in while running. just do what you can to control what you can.
LOSI 8IGHT B.....o.s v-spec .21
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#11
J-Dub Wrote:I run byrons, and my engines are an oily mess, I doubt I would need after-run
lmao...but here is where your problem begins. nitro will eat your aluminum parts of the blck and such by leaving it in there like that. you will know that this is happening because your aluminum parts will begin to discolor....usually turning black.

im almost positive i read that quote from my vspec owners manual in the maintainance and care section.

i could take a pic and post if you like.
LOSI 8IGHT B.....o.s v-spec .21
DM-1....Mario Rossi Tuned .21
ROLLER NEEDED FOR....NovaRossi P5X
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#12
black is carbon build up, that is due to running rich and you will see that on the top of the piston only. You dont need after run oil, it really is pointless and will only foul plugs if u run a good fuel. Run the motor out of fuel and you are left with an oily mess, there is your after run oil. you just dont want to leave un burnt fuel in the motor that is what creates the rust
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#13
When Ive used after run oil seems like Id blow plugs on the next startSad

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#14
yeah I just pinch the fuel line and turn it over until it won't fire anymore mess created, problem solved maybe? Never had any problems...treat my engines the same way, and they have lasted me like 5-8 gallons.
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
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#15
yupp thats basically running it out of fuel
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#16
Czech-it-Out Graphics Wrote:black is carbon build up, that is due to running rich and you will see that on the top of the piston only. You dont need after run oil, it really is pointless and will only foul plugs if u run a good fuel. Run the motor out of fuel and you are left with an oily mess, there is your after run oil. you just dont want to leave un burnt fuel in the motor that is what creates the rust

ya i had some carbon or black stuff on the piston of my old v-spec with like 4 gallons on it. I just got a papertowel and rubbed it off so i don think thers really a need for afterrun.
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#17
I've never used after-run oil. everyone looks at me like I am stupid...but my plugs last for a gallon or more and my engines still stomp arse. sometimes. ^__^
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
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#18
after run is the most overrated newbie recomendation ive ever heard its not necessary, unless ur storing motors for months at a time
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#19
yeah, I let my revo sit for like 2 months during the winter, and thats about the only time it saw After-Run.
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
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#20
Just do what ppl said, take out the plug after running all of the fuel out, put a rag on the engine, and run the starterbox for a few seconds which gets all the fuel out, it also works when its flooded too. But make sure you put a rag on the cooling head KEVIN! The other day kevin was over and my bros engine flooded so he took out the plug and i guess he forgot the gas was gonna come out so he pushed down the box and gas flew everywhere, like 4 feet up in the air, all over his face, and clothes. It was funny.
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#21
u dont need to do that, just burn the fuel out; once its all out all ur blowing out is oil and thats what u want to stay in there
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#22
yep byrons fuel run the motor out good to go. i do use after run oil on a new motor b 4 starting for the first time. dont use the od fuel
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#23
whats wrong with od? (I run Byrons but im just curious)
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
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#24
nothing, it smells strong. I run Sidewinder. Take that motor apart and get that rust off it. Use a bristle dremel bit, non abrasive. Just get the rust off completely. I use after run for storing a long time, and save the moisture packet from new shoes and stick those in the box with the motor your storing.
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#25
im not too sure how to take the crank out. i just sealed the engine today and had alot of problems with the carb bolt and having the screw for it strip out.is there a site with directions on how to remove it? and how is sidewinder?
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