general revo discussion

[Tex]

Are the Hardcore Ti or AL, I thought they were Aluminum? I think Squid http://www.bigsquidrc.com can get the hook up for like $250 for the Flextek....Something like that anyway, not sure exactly.

[Tex]

OR you could get

diff cases
cvd's (with centers)
proline single steering arm
RDracing servo saver mount
TRX heavy duty saver spring
one good servo ($75 or so)
spare a-arms, rod ends
pullstart
FOC
edit:good hex drivers


All that for around $300

[MyJeep]

Are the Hardcore Ti or AL, I thought they were Aluminum? I think Squid http://www.bigsquidrc.com can get the hook up for like $250 for the Flextek....Something like that anyway, not sure exactly.

The new version is mix. Ti & Alum.

Want the ultimate in lightweight and strength? Look no further. Our combination titanium and aluminum arms are exactly that! Made from 6AL4V titanium and 6061-T6 aluminum, these are our coolest arms yet! They feature HCR's Modular Titanium System (MTS) with stainless rivits for strength and corrosion resistance. Set screws are used to keep the pivot balls from backing out. These arms have the best weight to strength ratio on the market!

[Sh1nn3r]

ARe the titanium lighter the the rpm's?

[JOE]

i don't think they are but i dont think there would be much of a weight diff either way but rpms cost like $40 those are almost $300, i quess it just comes down to what you like i guess.

[DAVEC-NITRO-RS4]

OR you could get

diff cases
cvd's (with centers)
proline single steering arm
RDracing servo saver mount
TRX heavy duty saver spring
one good servo ($75 or so)
spare a-arms, rod ends
pullstart
FOC
edit:good hex drivers


All that for around $300

Good shopping list for "Santa", or Mrs. Claus......

[Sh1nn3r]

Well if santa wants to give me a m11 ill be happy.

[FreeRideFrosty]

OR you could get

diff cases
cvd's (with centers)
proline single steering arm
RDracing servo saver mount
TRX heavy duty saver spring
one good servo ($75 or so)
spare a-arms, rod ends
pullstart
FOC
edit:good hex drivers


All that for around $300

Don't worry Tex... That will all get done too. I was just curious now. I refuse to run RPM arms. They look like crap, the are bulky, and they rub, and they DO break. For now I will be running the stockers. I am also sticking to my original plan. I am only replacing things that break with better parts or am upgrading when money is burning a hole in my pocket. (Or if a killer deal comes along) I got a good deal on rocker arm posts, so I bought them. I broke a part of my skidplate so I will be buying the full Ti one. I am building it one piece at a time... (But unlike Johnny Cash this is going to cost me far more than a dime. )

[MyJeep]

Try boil the rpm arms before you put it on. It will reduce the chances it will get snapped.

[FreeRideFrosty]

Doesn't keep them from rubbing though... I have heard that they have a really bad fit on the revo...

[MyJeep]

Not on mine. Rubbing against the bulkhead? Then you probably have a bent rocker post.

[Michowski]

no if you run maxx size rims they will rub and cut a groove into the front a-arms. I have seen this on a couple revo's and i think thats a bad design on rpm's part. They do make a good strong a-arm but theres no reason for it to be rubbing.

[MyJeep]

Oh .. I didn't know that. Thanks for the info.

So most people run narrowed wabash for that reason maybe?

[Michowski]

probly 50% of the people run max size rims, 40% run 23mm 40 series like wabash, and 10% run stock rims. Most if not all people who buy the rpm arms cant do anything but just drive or buy all standard revo rims and get new sets of tires.

[DAVEC-NITRO-RS4]

one good servo ($75 or so)

Gabe, what steering servo would be OK in the $75 price range? Most of the other servos I've been told are good, like Airtronics 358, 359z, etc... are all around $100-115? Thanks!

[Tex]

you can get a used Air359 for around $60. I saw a used Hitec 945 which is decent for $45.

otherwise for a new budget servo the JR650z is great for $49. Or the Futaba 9351 for $80

[FreeRideFrosty]

What will happen if I, for a little while, run P2 rockers in the rear and P1's in the front?? And do I need different pushrods with the P2's? Thanks...

[DAVEC-NITRO-RS4]

The pushrods for P2's are slightly longer than stock, but only by maybe 3-4mm's. Don't know what mixed rockers would do for sure but my guess is the P1 end will be softer than the P2 end. Really don't know what the wrong p-rod length will do?

[DAVEC-NITRO-RS4]

Here's some info, sort of like a product review:

Just picked up some Lunsford Ti Rocker posts and installed them. They should be stronger than stock parts. The Traxxas parts are hollow and have internal threads for the cap screw that retains the rocker arm. Because you use threadlocker on the screw it's fairly common for the post to come out when you try to remove the screw.

The Lunsford part is a solid Ti post all the way through the body of the rocker, with male threads and a shoulder. The rocker is held on with a Nylock flange nut, just like an axle nut. The nut is easier to remove, and the post is solid material.

I will be interested to see if the part holds up better than stock. Our truck did have a bent front post from a crash that broke an arm.

[Tex]

Lundsford is quality parts made right

who edited my post?

[FreeRideFrosty]

I need to intsall mine but right now all I can say is they are purdy...

[DAVEC-NITRO-RS4]

Installation tip:

The hex size on the post is the same as the glow plug driver cross wrench. I used that to install them. And the flange nut is the same size as the wheel nut so I used a 7mm socket for those.

[FreeRideFrosty]

Installed the lunsford rocker arm posts. What an improvement over stock. They have a much better design (as stated above) and went in without a problem

The Hardcore skid on the other hand... I am not so impressed with. I, and the LHS, were under the impression that it replaced the skids on the Revo. Nope... it replaces the center skid but just covers up the front and rear skid. This I think is because they were too lazy to so some more machining to accomodate stock parts like hinge pin retainers. That and the fact that it needed to be bent to match the locations where it should be mounted. I will try to get pics up tomorrow. I e-mailed hardcore basically saying that I was not impressed to see how they responded... oh well. Looks nice though... (And I did file down the stock skids to only what was necessary to mount the skid to and retain the hinge pins.)

As for what was talked about earlier reguarding the removal of the steering stop... it can be removed completely. It was only a cover for half of the hinge pins. The stock front skid is what actually holds the hinge pins in. I got rid of it completely.

[Tex]

also with the HCR Ti skid you cannot use a starter box, it blocks the access

[FreeRideFrosty]

I saw that also. I am going to try to work something out with hardcore.

For racing I know that you don't want a pullstart but is there any problem with a roto start?? I know EZ starts are bulky and you generally don't want those either.