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DAVEC-NITRO-RS4 Wrote:Take tons of digipix as you go. And set the parts down on something in the order they came out in, noting fronts and backs of each part. Or bag and tag as you go.
That means after I screw it up you are going to help me put it back together right. :bustingup I think I'll be OK. If I have the trans apart I will probably do the FOC while I am at it that way I don't need to do it again...
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DAVEC-NITRO-RS4 Wrote:Tackle the transmission first, then the Amb
Amb?? Well I know that I need to fix the trans and I know I can figure out how...
The snow setup I am lost on. I thought I had the right setup...??
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Awwww... that doesn't say anything on how to drive through it. Just how to get ready for it. Right now I go flying into the snow and just kind of dig 4 holes and fill the body with snow. (But at least I know I waterproofed everything well... nothing fried.
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Maxx stlye tires don't work well backwards...Chevron style (v-tread design) are meant to dig in and clear themselves at least in mud thats how they work (1:1 mud tires anyway)
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So are you saying run 4 maxx tires the right way?? Or should I just try flipping the rear tires and leaving the mayhems on??
Stupid trans...
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They would probalbly work a little better....might still dig in and bury itself.
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I'll give it a try... I never remember the maxx getting stuck but I guess the revo's suspension makes it sit a lot lower and softer...
Waahooo 1000 posts. This is the first forum I ever hit 1K on...
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Jeez you post alot I'm only at....738.
Tekno EB48.4 HobbyWing XR8 Sanwa M12
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Dan, jack up the ride height to the maximum.
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To jack it up should I mess with the hinge pin placement and everything or should I just put some preload on the shocks to get rid of some of the sag??
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Push rod holes on the arms, and a little preload, but preload should not be used for large amounts of ride height change according to Traxxas. Page 35 in the manual. You've got yours right by the computer, right?
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Allright... and yeah. I figured preload on the RC was just like on my bike. If you use it too much it puts a lot of strain on the shocks and can cause them to blow early...
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yep, turn the ride height up for snow bashing. Also i did a test with the stock maxx tires as far as running them forward or backwards.
This is running on a dirt surface. (Like woodridge jumps/devry jumps/etc...)
First I ran the tires backwards (thinking it would act like paddles and grip better). I grab the back bumber with the truck running, stabbed the throttle, and the tires cleared away all the dirt from the top of the running surface.
Then I ran the tires the normal way. Grabbed the bumper, stabbed the throttle, and the tires dug four holes into the ground instead of simply clearing all the dirt off the surface.
Sooo...running the tires backwards yielded less traction. It causes the tires to "float" on top of the surface.
Running correct caused them to "dig"
Mugen MBX5T
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oh and diff oil changes does make a pretty big difference. I run 30K/Front, 10K/Rear.
Lighter oil in the back causes less "push" in the turns, which means you turn faster and tighter with light oil in back.
So in essense you could run 10K/Front, 3K/Rear and it would be like 30K/Front, 10K/rear, or about 3 times lighter oil.
The reason Revos use heavier oil in the diffs than say ..Buggies... is because the diffs cause alot less "diff action" than buggy diffs. Meaning a heavier oil is needed in revos to get the same effect as a lighter oil in a buggy.
Revos come stock with 30K/Front, 30K/Rear diff oil. That's an ok start point to get used to your new truck, or for all out bashers. Once you get on a track with tight turns you will want the lighter oil in the rear diff so you can carve your way through the track faster/tighter.
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Awesome... but I don't think any of that is code for "I want to fix your trans." :bustingup Hehe... I think I may head outside soon to tear that down. God help me...
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Bring it in the house, lay out a towel and bust it out on the dinner table...hehe
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If I brought that in and put it on the dining room table on top of blankets and a moving pad I still wouldn't be living...
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Show up at Leisure tomorrow with broken truck, repair parts, beer and a confused look. The problem should resolve itself pretty quickly from there.....
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LMAO... I can't man. I wasn't there before to help. I know Bernie is doing it as a perk to those who helped. I'm not one to intrude or take advantage of people. I got home from school today and fell asleep. Then I had to work. I will probably take it apart tomorrow morning. Now... If I go with a FOC then the opti drive module and all is no longer necessary correct?? Meaning I would wire the truck as I normally would a nitro. (battery pack to reciever. Throttle servo to reciever... and how do I do the steering servos since there are 2 and no opti drive to go through?? Do I just plug the y-tail thingy into the reciever as normal??
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Yup...just plug it in as normal. Just pay attention as you take it apart, they go back together pretty easily. If you still can't get it, lmk I'm not that far from you.
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And I'm thinking about removing the optidrive even though I still have reverse. My thumb functions as the optidrive safety. The only thing I lose is the low battery indicator, but I want to clear up the wiring, especially now that I need to add wires for the amb.
Opti's gotta go.
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That's a good idea. I never really thought of doing that. It would make a nice spot for the amb to but supposedly it's not supposed to be close to the reciever??
(And I did some looking/thinking ...not worth going titanium on the revo. If I can find some deals as I go along I will get the parts but other than that I am just going to get it setup for the track. For parts like rocker arms I may just go aluminum since I have already broken a few plastic ones. Plus they are about 1/4 the price of the titanium ones.)
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Yep. Amb will go as far as the wire will allow away from rx. I just need the volume it took inside the box for wires. I also have wires for a failsafe that make it real tight in there already. I'll cover the opening where the opti was, like with the FOC.
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