Top 3 buggies

[Tex]

my bad then...yes it is a 3-port

your too smart for me mike

[squirrel]

yes it says it on the box tex!!! and it was originally $150!!! booya grandma! j/k i didn't mean for it to start anything i just wanted to know why everyone hated ofna! i love it. i know it's not that greatest but why are they the worst. mine hasn't broken and it has been relatively competative!(as comp as st. louis can be) please let me know whats so wrong with them!

[MX_KEVIN]

As for the Axles snapping---problem is that it is the same as it is for the buggie but being on the ST using a much larger wheel looks to be that it cannot support them all that well.

I took this pic for you so you see the axles are not the same on the buggy. I was thinking of using the buggy axles on my ST, then I would have to buy those 17mm hex wheels that HPI sells. But I havnt had that problem with my ST...YET



Wheres the RC car wash??

[slim]

i dont understand why they put such a tiny retaining nut on a monster truck, never seen a buggy with a prob, why not just keep to that standard? i want to get a truggy but with 10 differant rim standards , it seems daunting and confusing for someone not in the know...

[Biodragen]

MX_KEVIN

I noticed that myself and I wondered if the buggy ones will wotk on the truck.
I was wondering if the 17mm hex's would work on the current axles for the truck.
Does not look that way by what I see above.
Are the dogbones and axles the same length?

Right now that is the biggest complaint I have along with the CBB's.

I don't know if this had anything to do with it but I put in heavier oil in the center diff to keep the front wheels from spinning out. It worked and then I find out the same thing could have been accomplished by stiffer oil in the front shocks.

The other thing is when I brake the front end takes a heavy nose dive---not sure what to do there.

BTW where do I find those Chassis Stifeners?

[MX_KEVIN]

Biodragen, You can swap them axles for the buggy ones because the axle carriers are the same. The dogbones are NOT the same because the ST has longer control arms. So youll have to do a little wrenching.
You can also buy dace wheel adapters that fit over the ST 14mm hexes, but that wont solve your problem. I think those are for problems with stripping out the wheels in the hex.
Im still playen with the shock and diff oils to find something that works for me. Yes, stock the truck felt loose. Last race I was 55wt. in shocks (too stiff for outdoors) and 50,000 in diff(also too stiff). Now im at 40wt.shocks and 7-10-3 for diffs but havent ran it in race conditions.
As for as parts go, I do my shopping at Als. I had to have them order the stiffeners from horizion hobbies, but luckily for you they seem to double my orders for thier stock. Id call and have them pull em out for you cause Im sure someone is gona take them soon(coughf Satoch coughf).
A few more piccs. Check out those new towers.

[Biodragen]

Okay I see the stifners---I have those but are flat bars

[Tex]

the engine mount is an option also isn't it? it takes care of any chassis flex in that area.

[satoch]

Biodragen, there's still a HD motor mount at Al's. I decided against it right now. I'll get it soon along with the HD chassis stiffeners, the new steering plate and rear anti-squat shims.

Kevin, what's up with the Ofna brakes? Why? Part numbers?

[NitroNuisance]

FreeRideJunkie has a great point... The chances of a begining 1/8 buggy racer noticeing any difference between a $750 roller and a $325 RTR are very slim. Good motor, solid platform, and decent tweeks (tires, springs, set-up) is all you will need for a good while.

By nature 1/8 buggies are the toughest around. 60ft jumps, cartwheel tumbles and high speed racing - they just don't break like MT do.

[HAGASAN]

Do you think you could tell the difference between an RTR jammin and a Kit Jammin? You better believe you can. An RTR will break easier and wear faster. The motor is not that great either and the servos are crap on most RTR's. The radio doesnt stand a chance and will be replaced. The Mayham does have a good radio tho. You get what you pay for, when you go RTR you will find that out fast.

[satoch]

Joe's right.

[MX_KEVIN]

Kevin, what's up with the Ofna brakes? Why? Part numbers?

Hey old man...The part # is 36661. They are not a direct replacement. You need to do some cutting and reaming.
Why? Because the Mayhem brakes are made out of paper or cardboard. After a few washings thay shred away till your left with nothing. Dont worry abouut it now. Soon well be on a dust free track and washing every weekend will be a thing of the past.(crossing fingers) The ofna brakes look to have more rubber in them. Im sure theres others to try but these looked close.

[Biodragen]

Okay I picked up those stiffners and the HD mounts.
I found that I also lost one of those stand off thingies---gotta go back and get that again.
I tried to use the HD mounts but they will not work---I guess because of the backplate roto start. They are for Bump start sotor set ups.
I also came across diff oil leaking so I need to get new gaskets there.
After messing around I was able to notice the less flexing compaired to the old stiffners
which leads me to think this is another reason for blowing bearings out so easily.
I also ordered the new 5mm shock towers.

However I do plan on getting a buggie. I just bought another NTC3 RTR for may 11yr old daughter for b-day\x-mas.
So buggie has to wait for now.

[MX_KEVIN]

Yes, sorry i didnt mention those mounts wont work with the roto start.
Arnt those stiffeners nice? Now if they mahe those mounts in aluminum instead of plastic. But I guess i little flex is desired.

[Biodragen]

Yeah the LHS did not know this either and they are taking them back even that I opened them. Know they will know as well. I found no info stating it was for bump box.
Now if they can make one just a tad bit shorter on the back end that would be great.

The mounts???Are you talking about that part that goes to the chassis and not to the towers right. Yeah that kinda stinks when I got around to messing with it. With these new ones there is less flex and I only did the one of the two so far.
I have lots of work to do tonight to be able to run it on Saturday local by me.

Now those new 5mm shock towers are thicker than the stock ones right?
What is your take on the Hex adaptors for the ST---not the buggies ones although it would be nice for something like that. I get tired of looking for the pins that fall out.

[MX_KEVIN]

Pretty much any accessort mounts for a RTR will be for a bump box. Lower CG, less weight yadda yadda. As for as wheel adapters go, Ive never used any but I here the dace adapters are the best. But there not going to fix your problem because they go over the stock axles and hexes and make it able to run the proline 23mm(??) hex wheels. Personally, id swap them ouy for the buggy axles if I was breaking them. maybe you got some bad ones, who knows...To do the buggy conversion you would need the axles, hexes and nuts, pin, setscrew, wheels and tires... Pretty pricey.like 160 Id guess...

Any way , thought Id let you know im on week 2 of curing my Buma LR i got off ebay. They took a long time to get here, but looks much nicer than the stuff in the LFS
60 lbs.base, 80lbs Buma, 180 lbs LSand in a 75 gal Oceanic. I figured by Now it will be time for the cleanup crew. I also looking to get about 60Lbs more rock.
Later :wavey:

Sorry for the fish talk in the buggy forum. I couldnt help myself

[Biodragen]

I hear ya.
I am going to wait and see what upgrade comes out next and take it from there.
On this link Option parts
They have at the bottom Truck F/R CVD Axles:ST Selling Price: $7.99
I want to know what that is all about.
If I can just get the axles without the dogbones that would be better---no probs with that part.
If the upgrades are crap then I will go with the buggie axles. That Niride stuff does not seem to be worth the money IMO cuz it looks to be only the dogbone only.
I think I just got a bad batch on my truck---Horizon did not dismiss that possibility and said it can happen.
Thing is I hit something really friggin hard before and the only thing that broke was the FR upper A-arm.
Axles were fine.


As for your S-Water set up---is this your first time with it?

[Tex]

I am not trying to be anal whatsoever but If you guys want to start a thread about the S-water stuff in the lounge, I know more than a few people on here may want to jump into that conversation.

There is a few fish/tank guys here.

[Biodragen]

Good Idea. I will start one

[maxximum_44]

Seriously.... should I just save my scratch$,or can I do something with this: http://www.nitrohouse.com/ofna_ultra_mbx_r2.htm

[HAGASAN]

Seriously, you should save your money. Its that price for a reason. If you want a good buggy by a used roller thats like a K-car, or mugen, jammin, etc. You can find some good deals outhere on used stuff thats in great condition. I now Mikey Czech had a K3 and or K2 he was going to get rid of before for a good price. ask around.

[Tex]

matt simpson (ATA Thrash) also has a Mugen MBX5 for a really good price...(If he's still selling it)

Buy a gently used roller like HAGASAN said, that would be your best bet. You'll end up spending the same amount of money as a cheap buggy but you'll own a great buggy. Sorry if that made no sense..lol

[Biodragen]

No it does make sense. I thought of that too. I do want a really good buggy but I also do not want one with issues from being the cheap route of purchasing.

the problem there also is some of us do not know how it was maintained and cared for---
Hense the Buyer beware thing.

[maxximum_44]

Cool. Thats pretty much what I figured. Thanks