Breaking in motors and tuning

[Biodragen]

Who here on the boards goes to LHR is really good a tuning and braking in motors.

I ask because I want to be able to learn this and the best way possible.
I would like this person to spend time with me on this at LHR.

I am more a hands on and feel kind of person verses books and reading.

So PM if you would like to be the one to help out.

Brian

[cemeb4dk]

Not sure on a race day anyone will have the time to help you out. But if I am there on a practice day you can ask me.

What is it doing now? hows it running, what are the temps at, blowing alot of smoke?

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

I know u said u dont like reading, but this is stephen bess's break in method.

Bess' method. Basically you wrap the
cooling head with some tin foil and then a sock if its really cold
outside. That way you can run the engine rich and it still be at 200-
220 degrees. Then you just start driving the car around modereratly,
no blipping the thottle quickle because you don't want to "skid" the
bearings and out flat spots in them. You just drive it around going
from no throttle and rolling the throttle slowly to 1/4 for the first
tank, then on the second and third tank do the same thing but rolling
the throttle to maybe 1/2 throttle. You do this for 3 tanks of fuel
but you don't stop the engine between tanks. You just keep filling it
up. Its almost like the Rody Roem break in method but adding the tin
foil lets you run the engine richer for a few tanks lubricating and
washing out all the metal thats coming off the piston when the pinch
is still very tight. Works awesome. I'll have to refrechen up on how
many tanks to do this for but I think it was 3 tanks. Then take the
car to the track and run 2-3 tanks around the track nice and easy, not
race tune and no FAST blips of the throttle and going down the
straight just go 1/2 throttle and getting on and off the throttle if
the straight is really long. After 2-3 tanks of that, Race tune and
run her hard!! Takes way less time than the other Heat Cycle method
and is just as good or I believe better because your getting more
lubrication threw the engine when it needs it the most when its brand
new ;-) Just another way you guys can try and it works killer!

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

tuning is still tough, I nor my dad are pros at it, but as long as the motor runs hard and has good smoke temps dont matter. We will be tehre the 14th if you need any help.

[Biodragen]

Well I am getting a new motor.

My Sportwerks .26 one was just fine running at around 230 - 240 and then it locked up.

Checked it out and the crank where the connectiing rod broke and scratched up in that area.
The piston and sleave came right out easily and in your hands sliding the piston in the sleeve it gets real tight at the last 1/4 of it.

Looking at the P\S I do not see any wear or scratching.
This was a clean break. Nothing twisted or anything like that.
I have a gallon through the motor and did break in just like they wanted it done in the book.

I called Horizon and they told me to send it back to them in pieces but I should not have taken it apart.
I said I did not have much choice to take the rotostart off and there it was. I had a heck of a time getting the flywheel off and that is when the P\S came right out in one piece.

So I will send this back but meanwhile I plan on getting another motor but this time I was looking to find someone who has a real good understanding and experience to help me and teach me.

I could make it out on a Friday after work once I get what I need is about the best time.
I understand this would not be any good to do during a race day and bad for me during the week.

Brian

[Biodragen]

Well I want to do it the best way and learn it that way and see it being done this way.
I do read but I do not catch on as good as I would hands on with some guidence.

I did print and read the heat method one from the link here about the new motor and fuel.

BTW all this motor seen was O'Donnels 20%

[DAVEC-NITRO-RS4]

I have only broken in 2 new motors.

The Traxxas Revo method (see their website for details) involved driving it on the ground, and worked fine (I guess) as our engine is fine after about 2 gallons.

Our HPI 12SS has a carbide treated sleeve and they had a different break-in process, strictly based on temperature. It involved running it AT IDLE only, until up to heat, then stopping it, with piston down (VERY IMPORTANT!!) over and over and over again, for like three or four tanks. The engine is good but I only have maybe 2 quarts on it, at the most. It's a tough tune, btw.

[slim]

bess method is the deal... like what mike posted up there...

all my motors last 5+gallons... i have never really wore one out.

during breakin, you need the heat, foil is good. you want the heat AND the extra fuel, and thats the best way to do it.

that one monday a guy was breakin in a sw motor in a truck with no body on it.... it was suppa rich... i stopped him while i was marshalling and temped it and was 140.... i leaned him a touch a few times to help the temp.... but if would have kept it at 140 it would have been WORE OUT...

[DAVEC-NITRO-RS4]

The gentle throttle driving up-down method (Bess) is what Traxxas instructs for the Revo.

[destroy_my_revo_15]

i did exactly what traxxas said to do when i did the breakin process on the 2.5r and id say i have about 4 1/2 gallons on it and still running strong