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snakebite46 Wrote:Guy has at Al's today......could have both some diff fluid right there....
Bust out the plastic Freeride....
Just watch Tune do it.... It's simple =P
Maybe it's late... but I'm confused. LoL. And I'm pissed because when I got home and put my hand in my pocket I found $20. I could have gotten the aluminum sevo horn of some diff fluid... Oh well.  And I was told to prepare to be hacked by a hellfire. Hmmmm.... aluminum vs. plastic... we already know what happens with a metal garbage can... and aluminum is metal...  
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And I shortened my fuel tubing even more tune. It is probably just under a foot now from the tank to the carb...
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Picked up some Diff fluid today. 7000 going up front, 10000 in the center, and 3000 in the rear... Also got an aluminum steering servo horn. I will be picking up a new air filter on Friday. Brilliant. :-)
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if it pushes, its cuz thats a thick fluid set up.... i personally woulda went 3f 5c 2r or 3f 7c 2r....
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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theres nothing wrong with that set-up Rocco. aint too thick....
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fight ladies fight....
A friend will help you move, but a REAL friend will help you move a body.
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snakebite46 Wrote:theres nothing wrong with that set-up Rocco. aint too thick....
I didnt say it was wrong... I just said that from my experince and driving style i felt that set up took away steering
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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cemeb4dk Wrote:fight ladies fight....
Go feed your baby
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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I run 5000f, 7000c, 2000r works good but will push the ass end out if I get on it to hard coming out of a corner. It didn't do that with 3000f,5000c 1000r
but has better traction down the straights with the thicker fluid
TEAM DENTTEK HACKING OUR WAY TO THE TOP!!!!!!
THE ANGRY PEAR IS BACK
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It's all personal preference...if the front tires balloon easily increase the center. Thicker in the rear will cause the back to get loose around corners.
You will have to tailor it to your driving style.
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So where I am at is a good starting point correct?? And I am shocked that for once the mugen diff fluid was the cheapest out of everything... by a few dollars. LoL
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Go with the mugen air filter as well at $10.
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
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Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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:joy: :joy: Changed the fluid in the diffs. (F 7K C 10K R 3K) And took her out for a spin. WOW!! I need to adjust the steering some but other than that it looks to be running allright for now. With my nice short fuel line it sat at about 245 the whole time. That sucker rips. The only thing that stopped me was my own stupidity... When I put the motor in inside without locktite... I forgot to locktite it in the garage. Other than that all is well...
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I dont use loctite......no need for it on the mount.
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I use loctite.
Mugen MBX5T
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Well I know that without it it moved so I will be using it.
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with a locking washer loc tite really doesnt do anything but give you reasurrance. Wont hurt anything tho.
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I didn't know the hotbodies mount had locking washers.
Mugen MBX5T
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you can get 3mm locking washers anywere. Ive seen em at any lhs, any hardware store. There like 10 cents at like menards. You can buy a 6 pack at the hobby store for like 1.29.
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snakebite46 Wrote:I dont use loctite......no need for it on the mount.
Are you guys talking about from the motor to the mount or the mount to the chassis?
FS-Sportwerks 1/8 Hauler
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I don't use loctite on the screws that attach my engine to the engine mount either. Lock washers are the way to go for something that comes on and off fairly often like an engine  .
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I locktite mine
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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no locktite here
Losi 8ight with v-spec[SIZE="4"]
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