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UE-Maxx Wrote:Kind of off topic, but should I take apart my .21 whenever I get it? If you want to PM me your answer so it doesn't change the topic that would be ok. Yes, remove any metal shavings that may be inside of it. People have even found metal shavings inside of high $$$ novarossi/RB motors.
SOLD: BCE Pro X1-CRT Truggy, Dace Predator/Unlimited Engineering towered VBS Supermaxx
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I've never popped a new motor open, I just run em.....  mash:
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Ditto
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I never opened up my P5x, but its EB modded so Im sure it was clean and ready to run 
Kyosho ST-R
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Airtronics 94359z servos
Kyosho SP2
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Well i got about 2 minutes on my plus 21-5 engine. Started right up as soon as the fuel reached the carb. Had a heck of a time getting it to 200 tho. I had to lean it out like 3-4 turns in before it got to 200. Got tons of foil rapped around the head and it still like to run really cool. No problem tho, just lean it out another turn and it should be good
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why only 2 minutes?
You say had a heck of a time getting to 200, you only ran 2 minutes couldnt have been that hard.LOL
A friend will help you move, but a REAL friend will help you move a body.
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Yeah... Why 2 mins???
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heat cycle, 2-3 minutes a run
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cemeb4dk Wrote:why only 2 minutes?
You say had a heck of a time getting to 200, you only ran 2 minutes couldnt have been that hard.LOL
Heck of a time if i leaned it out 4 turns to get it to temps and its even still a little cool.
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still, why one cycle?????
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
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cuz it got an air lock and I was at work doing it so I couldnt do anything about it but come home. Il finish it tomorrow.
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gettin paid to break in a motor!!!! Sounds like me!!!!
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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took like an 2 hour break because i felt like it so I decided to go home get the crt and attempt to get the heat cycle through it. Got one out of 8 runs done.
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The whole point of the heat cycle method is to get it above 200 and keep it there for 2 or more mins. Then let it cool down.
Mugen MBX5T Prospec
RB C6bb/O.S. Speed
Hitec 5955
Futaba s9351
Jr Z-1
http://www.frontlinetec.com
Soo easy a cave man can drive it Mooooooooooogen
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Well I dropped the whole stock clutch and am gonna run the mugen shoes and springs. Got a NIB novarossi 9886 exhaust and a nova short header comming in as well.
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stock clutch not holding up???
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--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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the stock buggy clutch is junk. I think the CR and the CRT have the some crap....
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Mich, you should like the Mugen carbon shoes and springs, thats what Ive been using all year on my P5 along with a Ofna vented clutch bell, Ive had the shoes last about a gallon or more 
Kyosho ST-R
O.S. EB Mod V-spec
O.S. T-2050 pipe
Airtronics 94359z servos
Kyosho SP2
O.S. V-spec
Mugen MSR-1005 pipe
Futaba 9350 & 9451 servos
Kyosho Inferno GT
SH .28
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Well with me not installed it right, and the clutch just being junk to begin with it didnt last any more then 7 tanks. I didnt realize theres supposed to be little washers behind the shoes and the springs on the stock clutch arent even springs. Theres nothing springy about them.
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I installed Mugen carbons on my P5 in Sept '05 and 3 gallons later they still had over 50% of their life left. I ran .9 springs for an early engaugment so not much slipping going on.
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Mugen shoes seem to last the longest for me as well.
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AE clutch rocks...
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mugen ordered with 1mm springs
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Michowski
I have the mugen shoes and I run 2 .9 ofna and 1 1.0 ofna springs and I love the setup, just thought I would throw that out there.
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I like the ttr clutch ... I use the AE nitro tc3 shoes and ttr 1.0 springs... I like it alot
Dont mess wit my sig Line tune!
--Then follow the rules! haha!-- -Tune
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![[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]](http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/9408/mich1iy1.jpg)
