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lol im still using the stock linkages lol
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Just keep an eye on 'em, I guess. If you suddenly have no brakes, or no throttle control.....you'll know where to look.
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what part stripped? where the rods thread into?
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On the throttle, it's the rod end that snaps onto the carb ballstud. On the brakes, it's the plastic block that's on the servo horn (it has two rods side by side for the two brake links).
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Could that be from the amount of stress from the brakes? I know my brakes were set up way to tight. Hit the trigger not even 1/4 and the fronts are locking up. Plus,these stock servos seem to be fairly stong(think I heard 100oz or more for steering). Strong servo and very tight brake set up...something has to give somewhere.
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Dave, have you checked your epa's? If it's set wrong, it could do that. Better to break the linkage than the servo. Remember, there is no servo saver on your throttle/brake. Very easy to break stuff there if not set right.
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Yeah the EPA's were ok, it's just a small thread on the rob into a soft plastic part is all. I got them set collared tonight and finished the break-in. Got temps up to 215'ish with plenty of exhaust smoke and the motor mnoves it right out. I'm sure I'll sneak up on getting it leaner and faster, but plan to take it slow. Big blocks are gas hogs! Jeez...10minutes on a break-in tank just putting back and forth.
Anyone know for sure if the Pro28 motor needs a shim for 30% OD's fuel? Thanks.
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I'd just run it personally. You can always add a shim later if it doesn't seem to like the upped nitro content.
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And the best way to tell "it doesn't like it"? Piston color/surface appearance?
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i think its shimmed outta the box for 30% as it is a "race" truggy, if it starts getting very difficult to tune, take off the head and check to see if there is pitting on the piston and head button. If there is add a small shim. If you want, I will ask something on the grid
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I ask on the grid as well.
Thanks,
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I thought motors .21 and higher needed a second shim. I didnt even think about that when I put fuel in my last week and started it up. It did run fine from what I can tell(besides needing to go up to a 14 or 15t on the clutch bell,not much top end IMO). I never did shim with my 2.5 on the revo,told I didnt have to worry about it.
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Generally, smallblocks are supposed to be run on 20% meaning add a shim for 30%.
Big Blocks are usually fine strait out of the box running 30%, no shim needed (most of the time)
Personally I run 30% in everything and have never added a shim once. This is with a bunch of different smallblocks and bigblocks
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Tex Wrote:Generally, smallblocks are supposed to be run on 20% meaning add a shim for 30%.
Big Blocks are usually fine strait out of the box running 30%, no shim needed (most of the time)
Personally I run 30% in everything and have never added a shim once. This is with a bunch of different smallblocks and bigblocks
Me too, never added a shim in my life lol.
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Richard Saxton, TTR team driver replied on the grid that the factory .28 is fine on 30% as-is, but recommended a better plug.
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what plug r u going to run , ive tried a few but OD99 is the best ive used so far, but a little pricey might want to try mycoy or racers edge, or O.S. plugs also.
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me either
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I have some MC59 and a couple RB 5s and 6s that I think I'll try when I get my truck this week or early next week. I'll let you guys know if any of them work good or not
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nice to have u on the dark side man...make sure u tell all the jammin lovin homos whats up hahahhaha
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I can wait to get both running man I feel like a little kid again cleaning up the S3
"I'm always amazed to hear of air crash victims so badly mutilated that they have to be identified by their dental records. What I can't understand is, if they don't know who you are, how do they know who your dentist is?"
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LOL nice
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Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you
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