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it assembles very well , as for tips here is a list of a few things i did .
1. On the diffs use 2 gaskets , it makes the diffs smoother and less prone to leaking , also use a good thick grease on the outdrives and O rings , AE black grease works well .
2 . ON the pins that go through the axles and wheel hub, i gound a flat spot in the middle of this pin to the set screw "locks " the pin into place , use a little locktight on this setscrew as well .
3. When assembling the servo saver compress the spring a few times with pliers and grease the upper portion of the servo saver where the tube goes through and where it contacts the lower part . This alows the servoe saver to do its job and not bind up.
Pretty much everything else is just building the kit and gettin the right setup . The truck is dialed .
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2 . ON the pins that go through the axles and wheel hub, i gound a flat spot in the middle of this pin to the set screw "locks " the pin into place , use a little locktight on this setscrew as well .
Thats a good idea, that was on of my concerns with the mugen.
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hey guys have a question for you guys, I have a mugeb pro spec truggy and was trying to figure out the main differance between the truggy convirsion and the truggy kit. i havent run it at the track yet but have been trying to get it tuned and doing some bashing with it. looking to go to the track soon to get some 1/8 scale under my belt. hope to see you guys there
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The truggy and truggy conversion are very different , the conversion is just basically a buggy with hub extenders and a longer chassis , and a bigger spur gear for ideal gearing for a truggy . the Truggy MBX-5t has longer arms , truggy shock towers , longer chassis , regeared ring and pinions , better shocks .
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also on the cvd's you can use some shrink wrap and put it over the cvd so the pin cant fall out.
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chickenfarmer3 Wrote:also on the cvd's you can use some shrink wrap and put it over the cvd so the pin cant fall out. But I would think that if you grind down that part on the pin,and use thread locker on the set screw. You shouldnt have a problem.
Chad,that pin did you tell me you used? The HPI hellfire pin?
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Casketman Wrote:But I would think that if you grind down that part on the pin,and use thread locker on the set screw. You shouldnt have a problem.
Chad,that pin did you tell me you used? The HPI hellfire pin?
i think it was from a hellfire or a LSP not sure but it was just a hair short, i think grinding the mugen ones would be the best bet.
anyone know if white lithium grease will work ok in the place of that mugen super joint chit?? always worked great on the kyosho ring and pinions, only lost one set in 4 months.
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How about shimming the diffs??
I heard the mesh of Mugen and Kyosho diffs is more critical now that they have spiral cut teeth.....
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chickenfarmer3 Wrote:i think it was from a hellfire or a LSP not sure but it was just a hair short, i think grinding the mugen ones would be the best bet.
The mugen crosspins are 2.5mmX15.7mm
HPI Hellfire are 2.5mmX14.6mm
Quote:rcrunr1
How about shimming the diffs??
I heard the mesh of Mugen and Kyosho diffs is more critical now that they have spiral cut teeth.....
I have yet to hear anything bad about the Mugen diffs other then they need to be broken in,and then the oil should be changed(one race weekend is about as long as you should go from what I understand). I have heard the Kyosho diffs are a pain in the ass.
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I shim the diffs so there is a little backlash , normally 1 shim on the plastic side of the diff .
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Thats how it said to do it when I built it if I remember right. One shim on the outside of all 4 of the half gears.
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Just so you know, I use 1 gasket on diffs. There were tight at first but have broke in nicely and dont leak, but I did sand the cups flat. No shims at all. Again was tight at first but broke in nicely. And I did have a wheel extender fall off on the first run because I wasnt used to really tightening that set screw on my buggy, but since theyve been cranked down with loctite, no problems. Axles have been flawless. Those I knew better  .
I did have the clutch bearing go out with less than a gallon on it which messed up my spur and clutch bell, Advids are better IMO...
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Kyosho diffs are just fine, you have to know how to shim them. I havent blown a diff ever and i have close to eight gallons through my car.
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LMFAO @ that fcuking sig line!!!!!!!! They are real quotes too!
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Had to shim my front diff on my 8.
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i made it over 4 gallons on same set of kyosho diff gears.  shock bladders......nevermind. :O
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Omg those sigs are funny as hell.
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nice avatar chris.
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ya joe they are just fine, ud think these companies could figure out a way where u dont have to phuck with shims, like xray did, TTR has one on each side for both cars, but i dont get kyosho i always had to dick around with shims to get it right so ghey
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:lol:
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i wasnt making a joke
Here is a link to my website-
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Hes just laughing because he finally woke up and made the jump. Now he is just a happy guy.
So dont shoot him down just yet mike!!!
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Lol
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Think he was giving you the thumbs up.
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Any car i have owned it calls for diff shims. Dont know about xray, but even the damn T-maxx i had years ago called for them. All cars have issues, its up to the builder to correct things and set some stuff up. Diff shims are minor issues, installing a new chassis because the stock one cracks is a major issue, now thats gay.
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