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well i just bought a stock 2.5r revo, so what are the most important upgrades for racing.
xxxnt with trx 3.3
Hpi rush w/2.5
Traxxas Sportmaxx
hpi super nitro rs4 trx 2.5 powered
revo os.18 tm powered
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wing, forward only conversion, orange and gold springs, tires, center diff if you want it, single steering servo, better servos
The worst dirtbiker is always one step ahead of even the best quad rider....
Tex Wrote:WTF, racing ranger 2?????? and racing ranger 1???? #2 needs his ass kicked for taking someone elses name.
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racin ranger is right on.
The first upgrade should be the wing, no questions asked. It will save you many a bent chassis, broken engine heads, etc. After that tear open the tranny and install the FOC. Reverse isn't allowed in racing, so might as well removed it all together. Next on my list would be a single steering servo upgrade. If money allows, pick up a starter box and get rid of the eazy start.
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T I R E S !!!!!
Steering mods
Servo
Springs, shock oils
Diff oils
30% fuel and proper shimming
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chitown rc wing sticker.
[url][/url]
IN GOD WE TRUST, ALL OTHERS MUST PAY.
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yea, stickers are the most important, they are truel what makes your ride fast. everything else is overkill, really not important and just a waste of money. stickers are where its at.
E-clips can travel at hundred of miles an hour and increase speed as they bouce off objects...if only mankind could harness this incredible power source.
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Wing & tires before all else...
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you should buy a wing first then get the forward only kit then get tires
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tires is 80% of setup......
tires first, then FOC
the best thing you could do when you first start racing is go slow around the track and gradually get faster....don't try to be as fast as the "fast guys" you see...it'll just screw you up more...
Mugen MBX5T
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The wing and FOC are cheap and can be done at once. Unless your really tight for cash. In that case. I would go with a FOC then the wing.
Yes the wing will help protect all those parts everyone has said. It will also add some downforce to the rear too. But the FOC is needed to race,but then again. If you dont have that yet. Just dont put the thing in reverse.
Another good thing that comes from doing the forward only is you take out the opti drive which will drain the battery faster. Although a high end digital servo will offset that.
Tires are another good thing to get. You can stay with the stock hex. Or go up to the 23mm and use the Dace adapters. I used them for awhile and never had a problem with them. Use the Maxx size rims for more of a tire choice over the 40 series rims. The 40s are nice because that is more tire on the ground. But there is a difference in how your truck handles in all areas.
RPM arms are another good choice. I also used the RPM axle carriers with no problems. Other people will say get the RD racing(not logics) adapters or stay with stock and get extras. But once a pivot ball pops out of the stock carriers. That carrier is garbage. The ones from RPM are thicker and have bigger bearings. The RD ones are Alum.
If I can remember right from 2 years ago. I started with Tires,servo,and FOC all at once.
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what are some good tires for leiure hours and what is agoo servo fo around 60 bucks
xxxnt with trx 3.3
Hpi rush w/2.5
Traxxas Sportmaxx
hpi super nitro rs4 trx 2.5 powered
revo os.18 tm powered
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ACE digital, check out amainhobbies.com they have them for like 75$
Here is a link to my website-
http://www.czech-it-out-graphics.com
1/29/07 never forget....TTT alute:
Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you
"Always Imitated, Never Duplicated"
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Tires,well if you go with Maxx size rims. You have Holeshot MTRs and Panther Boa C's(clay compound). Others would say bowties,but I have been told they should be a well used set. If you have a new set,put some street time on them to help wear them down alittle faster.
If you go with 40's. Bowties,and thats about it for that size.
Under $60? Wow,not much lol.. You could try this one.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info...ts_id/5994
There are a couple of others. But unless you find something on Ebay. It will be hard IMO to find a good strong,fast servo for less then $90. Most go for $100-120. You want something with atleast 160oz of torq. and a time of .15ish is good.
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Here is a link to my website-
http://www.czech-it-out-graphics.com
1/29/07 never forget....TTT alute:
Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you
"Always Imitated, Never Duplicated"
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for a new racer with a lower budget bowties are a good tire (they are versatile, indoor or outdoor), and stick to the stock 14mm size (stock), anything bigger is just bling IMO...If you keep your wheel nuts tight then the stock axles and 14mm hex will work fine, it did for me and Tune for 2 solid years of running. Not one single problem.
I also use the stock steering knuckles (hubs) for almost 2 years without problems...I spent some money on RD Racing's aluminum ones and wished I hadn't....waste of money IMO. Never popped one pillow ball out or broke any of the stock knuckles in almost 2 years!
A solid single servo for a budget racer is the JR m650z...it's plenty to turn a revo and it's $50 new.....
You'll notice, everyone has their own opinion on hop-ups , what needs to be done, what should be done first, and what product/models to use......you'll get this with any question like "what is the best hop-ups for this truck" type questions.
Mugen MBX5T
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But the thing is.... I AM RIGHT!!!
But really,Tex is right. Everyone has their own thoughts about all of this. So you just have to take what we say and decide for yourself.
The 23mm adapters help take some of the beating the axle studs take. They are more then just a 'bling' factor
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more like the 23mm adapters make the axles break, they hurt more than help.
Mugen MBX5T
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I have only had one break and that was at the state race. I did hear bad things about the proline adapters. But as for the Dace set I had. Never a problem.
Then again,from reading different boards. I find that alot of the problems people have had. I didnt have. Hell,briyouu had problems with his diff's. I never had one in 2 years. So I guess my luck has been better then most. Who knows.
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I went through about 3 diffs in 2 years.... or about 8 gallons+
Mugen MBX5T
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23mm adapters aren't really needed on a revo. The stock stuff works fine and doesn't break (at least it didn't for me).
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Yea I dont know my many gallons I had. But one motor and that was about it as far as broken stuff.
But we stray some here. Its your choice what you get,but you must remember that with upgrades,some people have had bad days with them while others have had good. How and where they drive also can have an effect on things too. But basicly of all the parts out there for the revo. You cant go wrong with them. Just stay away from Integy parts!!! Out of say 10 people,9 of them will have had problems with them.
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you just should of bought my revo, then you wouldn't of had these questions...LOL, still for sale
8igth 2.0
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http://www.slickhobbies.com Burnside, KY/Littleton Co.
KillerB Racing
1994 yahama Phazer II LE snowmobile for sale..
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in-to-junk
8igth 2.0
thanks to:
http://www.slickhobbies.com Burnside, KY/Littleton Co.
KillerB Racing
1994 yahama Phazer II LE snowmobile for sale..
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The ads in the rc mags say at the top they are your stop for your show truck. That is all they are good for is show. At the hint of bashing or racing. Then bend.
Myspace.com/Mtdrew24
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