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im runnin an axial 32 in my ofna dm-1 right now.
im havein a couple of problems.
1st: i think the engine is way to torquey, i cant grab traction with any tire, suspension set-up, or throttle control. the owners manual calls for a .21, so my question is what race.21 would you recommend and why. (please bear with me, im new to on_road)
2nd: i keep frying my exhaust gasket that is between the header and pipe. ive checked to make sure that the seal is good when i install a new one. my engine is only temping @220-235 degrees. when i temp the header its ridiculously hot....my temp gun just reads...high!!
could this be due to the fact that the engine isnt really made for an on-road car?
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I think a 32 is probably more power than you need. as far as the exhaust header temperature I am not really sure why. as for .21's. Alot of Guys will Stand by Vspec forever. Ninja makes a snazzy on-road motor...but its like 750 at leisure hours. lol
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.
Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
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J-Dub Wrote:I think a 32 is probably more power than you need. as far as the exhaust header temperature I am not really sure why. as for .21's. Alot of Guys will Stand by Vspec forever. Ninja makes a snazzy on-road motor...but its like 750 at leisure hours. lol
im not really interested in the pricing on motors i just want to know what other people are using and how well they perform. i dont need a crazy exotic motor but at the same time i do want it to perform.
ive been lookin the radical race .21 but know1 seems to be able to give me a straight answer on how they are. ive also looked at novarossi, r&b, os v-specs.
but im just hoping to hear some first hand testimonials what peeps are using.
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Vspecs have a crazy power band all around and would probably work well in there.
Rb's (from what I've heard) have less low end so maybe that is what you're looking for in this case...
Tekno EB48.4 HobbyWing XR8 Sanwa M12
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yeah.....im runnin a 16 tooth first gear and 22 tooth second gear, and even in second gear the tires break loose.
i was thinkin that i needed somethin with alot less grunt. im really thinkin of changin to 18tooth first gear and 24 tooth second.
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May as well try it, alot cheaper than a new motor.
If you have a higher end radio (idk if you do or not) but if you do on most you can change how fast the servo responds to your input to make it more smooth.
Tekno EB48.4 HobbyWing XR8 Sanwa M12
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i do have a good radio and all and i do appreciate the replys.
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member of the smackahoe tribe  lap:
Violator 9.5 Jammin CRT Kyosho Inferno GT HPI MT
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ha ha ha funny....
on that note, i do have a cen ct-5 possibly for sale lol
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Well the 32 might not be the problem. What kind of springs have you tried? Whats your ride height, what tire compounds have you used and what foams have you used. Sway bars? droop? as for the engine blowing out gaskets, what kind of plug is in that engine? The plug might be to hot for the engine, which cause an advanced timing effect, which make exhaust hotter. Try gearing? Sometime being the fastest car out there makes you slower. Also anti-squat? toe? have you set the car up on a setup station? Or by eye? On-road is much more senitive to changes then off-road, every little thing you do can drasticlly change something else.
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07-17-2007, 12:16 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-17-2007, 12:22 AM by Thirdgen89GTA.)
Rob, depending on what you want to spend.
Try a Hyper .21 8port, about $120 to $160 depending on which version you get. Or if you are looking at Vspec priced engines try the OS on-road .21. Same price, more RPM.
A nova P5 would work well too.
I suggest going with a bump start model, far more power and top end without the drag from the PS or roto assembly.
$120 Hyper .21 8port - http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/ca...ts_id=3913
$275 Nova P5x - http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/ca...ts_id=7982
$300 OS VZ-R Turbo 2 - http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/ca...ts_id=9431
BTW, the Hyper is weiging in close to the buggy now. MUCH lighter without that crappy trans. Losing the 3rd servo helped alot, as well as trimming the radio tray, still need to make a carbon fiber peice to replace the aluminum tray. Check out all this room! lol. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/thirdgen89...diff01.jpg
BTW, I have ram for your PC. Anywhere from 512meg to a gig. Not sure which sticks may be bad though. I think they are all good PC100, and some are PC133. I have a few gigs of it in 128, 256, and 512meg sticks.
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Whitey04 Wrote:Well the 32 might not be the problem. What kind of springs have you tried? Whats your ride height, what tire compounds have you used and what foams have you used. Sway bars? droop? as for the engine blowing out gaskets, what kind of plug is in that engine? The plug might be to hot for the engine, which cause an advanced timing effect, which make exhaust hotter. Try gearing? Sometime being the fastest car out there makes you slower. Also anti-squat? toe? have you set the car up on a setup station? Or by eye? On-road is much more senitive to changes then off-road, every little thing you do can drasticlly change something else.
ive had my suspension three different ways by reputable racers. as far as tires, ive used 2 different foams, 2 different compound slicks, ofna on-roads, grp on-roads hard, med, and soft.....and ive tried traction compound on the all.
i did get some results but the torque on that motor just breaks-em loose tryin to keep up with the lesser powered buggies i was racing against. and yes, i know some of it is throttle control.
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Thirdgen89GTA Wrote:Rob, depending on what you want to spend.
BTW, the Hyper is weiging in close to the buggy now. MUCH lighter without that crappy trans. Losing the 3rd servo helped alot, as well as trimming the radio tray, still need to make a carbon fiber peice to replace the aluminum tray. Check out all this room! lol. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/thirdgen89...diff01.jpg
BTW, I have ram for your PC. Anywhere from 512meg to a gig. Not sure which sticks may be bad though. I think they are all good PC100, and some are PC133. I have a few gigs of it in 128, 256, and 512meg sticks.
well are you gonna bring it out friday night?! hopefully ill have a different engine by then...if not, ill just drift it again. gotta admit large scale looked cool as hell driftin last friday! oh yeah, that car of yours looks alot cleaner. so what do you want for the puter parts??
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oh and whitey....
im running an mc9 plug with 30% byron nitro.....but the motor is tempin at 220-230
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[QUOTE=Whitey04;160148 Also anti-squat? toe? have you set the car up on a setup station? Or by eye? On-road is much more senitive to changes then off-road, every little thing you do can drasticlly change something else.[/QUOTE]
i have tried different suspension set-ups with the on-road racers but, this is my first real on road car so i dont know squat about set-up. im tryin to find lit on it to read up but all i know is what peeps tell me
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mc9 hot plug right? go colder, might have better results 30 it hot shit anyways I'll see you wednesday, if I can remember I've go a book for you that you really need to read. Will teach you everything you need to know. except experience. You should be running a soft tire, traction compound wears away fast on asphalt, and how long at you letting the tires soak? You also really need softer springs it the car is drifting softer springs and tires are a most. Atleast in the rear. Is the car just loose or oversteering? If your over steering softer up front. If its just loose soft all around. Kill the sway bars to. They make it really hard to tune suspension. When I raced onroad I never ran swaybars, and nor did half the track. Still would like to race on-road, tracks to far away. Tires and springs homie, that is the key here. I know the guys your talking about also. Read this book and things will make alot more sense to you. My setup table is to small for your car also, and there is no such thing as eyeballing a setup. invest in an 1/8 scale buggy setup station and custom make a perfectly flat board. I talk to you more about it on friday, but I Garuntee that I can help you get that car to hook up with that motor.
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on a side note, I hate your avatar.....sorry it had to be said, I look at it and can't stop stearing.
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Whitey04 Wrote:mc9 hot plug right? go colder, might have better results 30 it hot shit anyways I'll see you wednesday, if I can remember I've go a book for you that you really need to read. Will teach you everything you need to know. except experience. You should be running a soft tire, traction compound wears away fast on asphalt, and how long at you letting the tires soak? You also really need softer springs it the car is drifting softer springs and tires are a most. Atleast in the rear. Is the car just loose or oversteering? If your over steering softer up front. If its just loose soft all around. Kill the sway bars to. They make it really hard to tune suspension. When I raced onroad I never ran swaybars, and nor did half the track. Still would like to race on-road, tracks to far away. Tires and springs homie, that is the key here. I know the guys your talking about also. Read this book and things will make alot more sense to you. My setup table is to small for your car also, and there is no such thing as eyeballing a setup. invest in an 1/8 scale buggy setup station and custom make a perfectly flat board. I talk to you more about it on friday, but I Garuntee that I can help you get that car to hook up with that motor.
sounds like a plan....
the sway bars on this thing are funky. i dont know how to explain, but they are 2-piece sway bars..if that makes sense. some1 told me to try running os 5 plugs in it to drop the temp but then chip told me that would not help. so i dont know.
on the tires, it was like 60 degrees out and i was only letting it sit for like ten mins....soon as i take off the car spins cuz tires are still wet....compound wouldnt get tacky.
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Whitey04 Wrote:on a side note, I hate your avatar.....sorry it had to be said, I look at it and can't stop stearing. lmao....ive been meaning to change that 
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cr4sh_27 Wrote:sounds like a plan....
the sway bars on this thing are funky. i dont know how to explain, but they are 2-piece sway bars..if that makes sense. some1 told me to try running os 5 plugs in it to drop the temp but then chip told me that would not help. so i dont know.
on the tires, it was like 60 degrees out and i was only letting it sit for like ten mins....soon as i take off the car spins cuz tires are still wet....compound wouldnt get tacky.
Compound needs more time, and before you run you NEED to wipe them off. I a situation like that with colder temps tire warmers are a must. The hotter the tire the more soak you get. at like 75 degrees you need atleast 15 minute soak time, and compound will only go so far. a 5 plug maybe to cold but getting a colder plug would be the key here for cooler combustion temps, you can keep the engine 220 or 230 all day but the combustion temps could be sky rocketing. Reason being is that a hotter plug will ignite the power stoke sooner then a colder plug and I know you understand ignition timing. the more you advance to hrder it is on the engine and the hotter it will get. Also can cause premature engine failure. Can't hear these nitro engines detonating (ignition knock). I'm willing to bet its the plug and fuel combo. 30 I high, I personally like 20 myself. Not as hard on the engine, you remember 50 mph with my savage on 20 percent. (well 48). No change when I switched to 30. Now my engine won't run right. Can't hold a tune, leaking air some where.
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Whitey04 Wrote:. I'm willing to bet its the plug and fuel combo. 30 I high, I personally like 20 myself. Not as hard on the engine, you remember 50 mph with my savage on 20 percent. (well 48). No change when I switched to 30. Now my engine won't run right. Can't hold a tune, leaking air some where.
ive been thinkin of droppin back to 20% ive never really noticed much of a difference on performance between the 2
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07-17-2007, 09:37 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-17-2007, 09:43 AM by Thirdgen89GTA.)
An MC-9 is supposedly a colder plug, but I've found the OS A5 to be colder, its what I like to run in my 30vg's with 30%.
I think i'll last a while on friday nights, a 250cc tank lasts a while.  Probably only fill it up halfway.
BTW, if you want to see how hot the combustion temp is, its best to temp the pipe, right on the header, if your combustion temp is too high it'll reflect in the pipe. Check for pitting, white ash, or a distorted coil on the glow plug.
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MC8= medium
MC9= cold
MC59= hot
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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The OS A5 plug is colder than the McCoy MC-9 though. Dropped 30* off my 30vg. Had a OS#8, Was running at between 270 and 290* (plenty of smoke mind you) exceedingly hot and still rich, sputtering, dripping fuel. Couldn't lean it out for fear of cooking the engine. Went to a MC9, and that dropped the temps to about 250 to but I still couldn't lean it out as it would creep to 270 or higher.
Finally put in an A5 plug and the temps dropped to 230 to 250 running well, with a trail of smoke. Good performance finally.
Don't know what was different about this 30vg as the old one I had liked to run with a MC9 and was plenty happy at about 220*.
We'll see if this brand new 30vg I have likes a MC9 or a A5 plug after its had a half gallon through it and I start to lean it out. I don't like to run the 30vg hot because it uses a ABL, or nickel liner, and will wear quickly when it gets hot because the liner is soft.
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