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I finished setting up the trx maxx diffs in the front VBS, I have to go to work soon, so the rear is going to have to wait for tomorrow.
Tex, you can ignore the PM lol.
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Those are sweet man, why go to all that trouble and not get CVD's?
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RCDad Wrote:Those are sweet man, why go to all that trouble and not get CVD's?
I plan on upgrading the diffs and CVDs all at once, but due to funds, thats going to wait untill next year.
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Aren't the stock axles weaker than the diffs?
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RCDad Wrote:Aren't the stock axles weaker than the diffs?
The stock driveshafts are usually the first things to go when you get a more powerful engine, but if I get CVDs, im going to get 8 spyder diffs also, but I don't have the cash to do that at the same time.
The stock driveshafts held up to the .18 cv-r for the gallon I was able to run
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I read somewhere that if you reverse the axles (tube side coming off the diff) that they are more resistant to twisting. It also keeps the dirt & dust out. Since it's already apart it may be worth a try.
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on my old school maxx that had the older smaller diamater driveshafts I used to epoxy wooden dowel into the center of the axle. after doing that the U joint ends would snap before they would twist and break.
-- John --
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Quote:Maxx=money pit
imo aren't all r/c's money pits?
IT'S ALL ABOUT THE PAIN; THE INK AND THE JEWELRY ARE JUST SOUVENIERS
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not as much as a t-maxx. Everything needs to be upgraded on it to make it reliable.
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Michowski Wrote:not as much as a t-maxx. Everything needs to be upgraded on it to make it reliable. my t-maxx was pretty reliable in stock form auctually.
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Wow that is some good looking aluminum. I won't a$k.
Good macro camera work, as well!
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RobH Wrote:my t-maxx was pretty reliable in stock form auctually. It's usually somewhere between bone stock and fully modified where all the headaches happen.
Nice set-up by the way.
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Looks awesome Rob! good job!
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