Kyosho ST thread

[rocco79]

ohh ok... I didnt know that was your name! LOL!!!

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

shut up lol

[Eracer76]

kyosho truck is like a buggy, remeber that gusy, u cant drive this one like a UMT and muscle it around

Ive been finding out real quick, that this is true!

Here is my take so far...
You dont need to muscle it around the track at all.
The truck just feels so light when driving it (maybe because it is) and it re-acts to every little thing you do.
Its real easy to go too fast and get out of control in a hurry (maybe its just my new V-spec power)
So....in a way its harder to drive, but it drives where you take it, and right now!
IMO, the steering is a night and day difference, granted my new Bowties (thanks George) were not the greatest tire for the weekend, it still turned far better then my LSP would on Boa C's.

The first time I ran the ST-R with the not so worn out foam in my Boa C's, it was a blast to drive, like it was on rails, I could dive right into the turn, hug it, and jump back on the gas without fear of pulling wide. (like how Sonny O does)

I really missed those Boa's C's today when the track got a little dried up

I also love the breaks, very nice and consistant, no fade at all during the whole 30min race. Ive heard these pads are quite pricey too, they look like 1:1 style pads and very high quality vented disks

Im also very impressed with how durable it is...
I took some bad spills going through the rough section, sending it into a kart-wheel for 20ft:eek:
One time I hit the wall down there as it was tumbling, it bounced up in the air and someone caught it in the crowd, he threw it back on the track and away I went! :bustingup

Anyway...Im real close to having a gallon through it now, have not broke a single thing, not even the plastic rear hinge pin holder or shock ends, needless to say, Im very happy with it so far :joy:

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

i have seen a few things get broken but to say the least i have seen it being very durable as typical for kyosho. The brakes are made in a real F1 plant which is why they are like 60$ a side lol

How did ur Nova run after I gave u that plug, any better? i saw ur car in the main last saturday and it looked like the motor was doin well

[Tex]

Something Eric didn't elaborate on that he told me at the races. The K-truck reacts to setup changes far more than the LSP. For instance, he said he would change stuff on the LSP and not even notice a difference, then change the same with the Kyosho and there was a huge difference.

Sounds like the you could dial the K-truck in a little more as the LSP kinda just stays the same for the most part? I've never owned, tuned, or driven either so this is hearsay and general analyzation.

[snakebite46]

Anyone know if you can find them cheaper than 669.00 ? Sheapest i found so far.

[Tex]

Sheep on your mind?

$669.00 is the lowest I've ever heard. I seen $750 give or take a few bucks so that $669.00 is awesome.

[DAVEC-NITRO-RS4]

Before they were out, A-Main was taking preorders at $700. That was the low number I saw until today.

[Michowski]

they sell it for 769.99.

[DAVEC-NITRO-RS4]

they sell it for 769.99.

NOW they do.

[snakebite46]

A-main is 669 check the price in the shopping cart not the page price.



LOL Gabe.

[Eracer76]

They can be found cheaper then that:p:

I guess no one wants to check out the link I provided to http://www.truggyracers.com ?
There is a whole section just for Kyosho truggies, there is a Kyosho rep named Tim that posts there all the time answering questions and so on.

There is also a guy named Steve, his sn is Maxxtruck, he owns and runs...SpeedtechNitro
The website is a nice one and he keeps pretty good stock on the ST-R and all the parts, he posts up when he gets shipments all the time. He has all the hop up parts like King Headz too.
This where I bought my ST-R for $650 plus $17 somthing shipping to IL from CA, and it was here in 4 busness days
Just email him for the real price, confirm your going to order it, and he'll change the price that gets charged to you, he also doesnt charge you until it ships. I bet more then half the people at truggy racers bought their ST-R's from Steve

[snakebite46]

Eric, I got a 25 dollar gift certificate for A-main plus the free shipping. I checked out the site you told me about when I got home on Sunday. Just checking to see if someone else has it cheaper. So, I'm still better off getting it from A-main. I was told that someone got one from Ulitmate for 599.00 for a Easter sale. Dont know if I should wait for another holiday sale from them to get one or jsut go ahead and get it from Kendall.

Thanks tho for the 411 bro. I checked it out.

[Eracer76]

Thats cool, I'd use that $25 too if I were you, plus free shipping, thats a good deal.
Too bad amain didnt get their first shipment of ST-R's until after my truck was half built, or I probably would have gotten it from them

[snakebite46]

Welp....gonna bring this thread back from the dead.

ST-R owners, post up your set-ups. Looking for some tweaks to gain alittle more steering. Running 10k in the front and thinking about droppiing back to 7k. Also, would a softer rear spring give me more steering or any droop setting for a different weight transfer ??? any help is appreciated.

[Sh1nn3r]

Heres mine

Running bowties

- 70w wt oil
- 1.4 pistons
- White springs
- Second hole from outside on shock tower
- Second hole from outside on suspension arm
- 20 deg caster blocks
- 7k front diff oil
- front ride height bones level or slightly below
- middle hole on caster block
- B mount on bottom
- High position for upper arm

Center

- 50 tooth spur
- 13 tooth clutch bell
- aluminum shoe
- 20,000 Center diff Oil

Rear

- 60 wt oil
- 1.4 pistons
- blue spring Spring
- Outside hole in tower
- Second to outside hole in suspension arm
- 2 deg anti squat block
- 2.5 rear toe block
- hubs all the way back
- camber link is in inside middle hole in tower and outside hole in
hub
- lower hole in rear hub
- 3k diff oil



Rich a couple of suggestions put your exp on the steering to -40 and check what you have on the front blocks. Also what hubs you running? 20 or 22? Make sure your on the middle hole on the front hubs and go down to 7k front diff

[Eracer76]

Come on Rich.....you ask us what our setups are but then dont post yours? J/K lol
Last time I saw you driving yours, it looked dialed in to me

Im running MT Bowties, RE foams, inner bead trimmed off the wheels. I also have CF's with stock foams, inner bead trimmed off the wheels.

Front
- 70wt shock oil
- 1.4 pistons
- White springs
- Second hole from outside on shock tower
- Second hole from inside on suspension arm
- 20 deg caster blocks
- 10k diff oil
- front ride height bones level
- middle hole on caster block
- B mount on bottom
- High position for upper arm
- Sway bar is flush
- Middle hole on the ackerman

Center

- 50 tooth spur
- 13 tooth clutch bell
- Fioroni Turbo Slider w/carbon shoes
- 20,000 Center diff Oil
- brake bias about 50/50

Rear

- 80wt shock oil
- 1.4 pistons
- white springs
- Second from outside hole in tower
- Second from outside hole in suspension arm
- 2 deg anti squat block
- 2.5 rear toe block
- hubs all the way back
- camber link is in inside middle hole in tower and outside hole in hub
- lower hole in rear hub
- 3k diff oil
- swaybar sticking out about 1/8"

My droop front and rear is set to max. I unhook the shocks from the tower bolts and then set the droop screws so the shocks have to be compressed just a little to be put back on the tower bolts.

Ive tried running less droop and I didnt like it for my style of driving, but that was awhile ago on the indoor track.

[Sh1nn3r]

What dont you like about less droop?

[Eracer76]

Not really sure how to explain it...
the truck just wasnt as plush as I like it, it seemed stiffer with having less suspension travel. It also bottemed out worse on landings.
Maybe I just took too much droop out and didnt take the time to play with it more. I just put it back the way I had it so I could run the last heat and main.

[HAGASAN]

Rich, WTF.

[snakebite46]

LOL..... dude.

[Eracer76]

I updated my setup above from the changes I made yesterday.
I went thicker shock oil in the rear and moved the front shocks in on the arms...not really sure if it helped me though.

So whats your setup look like now Rich??
Or dont you want to share since you were so hooked up yesterday

I'd like to see Joe's too, "Mr. come back from the dead" LOL
Man your truck looked good out there!

[snakebite46]

Front
- 70wt shock oil
- 1.4 pistons
- White springs
- Second hole from outside on shock tower
- Second hole from inside on suspension arm
- 22 deg caster blocks
- 5k diff oil
- front ride height bones level
- middle hole on caster block
- B mount on bottom
- High position for upper arm
- Sway bar 1mm
- Middle hole on the ackerman

Center

- 50 tooth spur
- 13 tooth clutch bell
- Kyosho 2 carbon 1 alum 1.0 springs
- 30,000 Center diff Oil
- brake bias about 30/70

Rear

- 70wt shock oil
- 1.4 pistons
- blue springs
- Second from outside hole in tower
- Second from outside hole in suspension arm
- 2 deg anti squat block
- 2.5 rear toe block
- hubs all the way back
- camber link is in inside lowest hole in tower and outside hole in hub
- lower hole in rear hub
- 4k diff oil
- swaybar sticking out about 3mm

Boas in MS were the ticket for me yesterday.

[Czech-it-Out Graphics]

fastest lap in the A with MT crimes

god is that track inconsistent all day! dry wet dry wet dry wet dry dry dry wet damp half and half.....then tacky in the main after i set up my car for a dry track! lol

[Sh1nn3r]

try 20 degree huns up front rich if you want more turn in.