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1 down, 1 to go for maxx diffs
#1
I finished setting up the trx maxx diffs in the front VBS, I have to go to work soon, so the rear is going to have to wait for tomorrow.

[Image: complete1.jpg]
[Image: complete2.jpg]


Tex, you can ignore the PM lol.
SOLD: BCE Pro X1-CRT Truggy, Dace Predator/Unlimited Engineering towered VBS Supermaxx
Current: Nitro Traxxas Slayer Pro 4x4, Nitro Traxxas Slash
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#2
Those are sweet man, why go to all that trouble and not get CVD's?
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#3
RCDad Wrote:Those are sweet man, why go to all that trouble and not get CVD's?

I plan on upgrading the diffs and CVDs all at once, but due to funds, thats going to wait untill next year.
SOLD: BCE Pro X1-CRT Truggy, Dace Predator/Unlimited Engineering towered VBS Supermaxx
Current: Nitro Traxxas Slayer Pro 4x4, Nitro Traxxas Slash
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#4
Aren't the stock axles weaker than the diffs?
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#5
RCDad Wrote:Aren't the stock axles weaker than the diffs?


The stock driveshafts are usually the first things to go when you get a more powerful engine, but if I get CVDs, im going to get 8 spyder diffs also, but I don't have the cash to do that at the same time.

The stock driveshafts held up to the .18 cv-r for the gallon I was able to run
SOLD: BCE Pro X1-CRT Truggy, Dace Predator/Unlimited Engineering towered VBS Supermaxx
Current: Nitro Traxxas Slayer Pro 4x4, Nitro Traxxas Slash
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#6
Maxx=money pit
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#7
I read somewhere that if you reverse the axles (tube side coming off the diff) that they are more resistant to twisting. It also keeps the dirt & dust out. Since it's already apart it may be worth a try.
___________________________________
Inktown Tattoo


Obsessed F/X Custom Painted R/C Bodies
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#8
on my old school maxx that had the older smaller diamater driveshafts I used to epoxy wooden dowel into the center of the axle. after doing that the U joint ends would snap before they would twist and break.
-- John --
1:1.. 01 Z28 Camaro A4 Sure.. its stock.
1:8's.. K3, Inferno GT, and a straight line beater car
1:18.. RC18t Mamba and 3s lipo
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#9
Quote:Maxx=money pit
imo aren't all r/c's money pits?
IT'S ALL ABOUT THE PAIN; THE INK AND THE JEWELRY ARE JUST SOUVENIERS
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#10
not as much as a t-maxx. Everything needs to be upgraded on it to make it reliable.
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#11
Michowski Wrote:not as much as a t-maxx. Everything needs to be upgraded on it to make it reliable.
my t-maxx was pretty reliable in stock form auctually.
SOLD: BCE Pro X1-CRT Truggy, Dace Predator/Unlimited Engineering towered VBS Supermaxx
Current: Nitro Traxxas Slayer Pro 4x4, Nitro Traxxas Slash
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#12
The VBS is now finished, I installed the rear diff, put a few stickers on it, and mounted up the shocks. The install of the rear differential went much quicker than the front since I knew what I was doing this time.

[Image: VBSdone1.jpg]
[Image: VBSdone2.jpg]
[Image: VBSdone3.jpg]
[Image: VBSdone4.jpg]
[Image: VBSdone5.jpg]

Now I'm just waiting for my Racer X kit and my truck will be complete.... for this year. Next year the drivetrain is going to be upgraded.
SOLD: BCE Pro X1-CRT Truggy, Dace Predator/Unlimited Engineering towered VBS Supermaxx
Current: Nitro Traxxas Slayer Pro 4x4, Nitro Traxxas Slash
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#13
Wow that is some good looking aluminum. I won't a$k.
Good macro camera work, as well!
got paint?
Colors by Dave - CBD
1-29-07 ... you know.
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#14
RobH Wrote:my t-maxx was pretty reliable in stock form auctually.
It's usually somewhere between bone stock and fully modified where all the headaches happen.


Nice set-up by the way. Cool
___________________________________
Inktown Tattoo


Obsessed F/X Custom Painted R/C Bodies
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#15
Looks awesome Rob! good job!
Mugen MBX5T
RBS5
RB2045
Futaba 3PM
Hitec 5955, 5965
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#16
pretty sweet :drool:
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