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Official Car Audio Thread
L7 came in today!
Looks badass.

Might be making the box tomorrow, we'll see.
Tekno EB48.4 HobbyWing XR8 Sanwa M12
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DO NOT RUSH THE BOX. Are you going sealed or ported? Volume? Calculated from?
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Free Box Plans - Car Audio Forum - CarAudio.com

Something from that site.
Ported, around 3 cu. ft. or 3.5 at 30-35 hz

I have to measure the trunk first, see what room I got.
Tekno EB48.4 HobbyWing XR8 Sanwa M12
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Dan check this out

18" RE MT's *PICS* 02/06/08 - Car Audio Forum - CarAudio.com
Tekno EB48.4 HobbyWing XR8 Sanwa M12
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Dumbest thing I have ever seen....
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ponch that is a really really gay setup that guy has. Makes elton john seem straight. Most of these people are funny thinking 18" subs and the entire trunk full of box and electronics is gonna make them the shit or something. I could take a single 10" sub and outdue that guy if I really wanted to lol. Probly sounds like shit because I rarely ever hear a nice tuned system. like 99% of people just put subs in a box and go. Never take the time to adjust or even attempt to tune it.
[Image: mich1iy1.jpg]
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Alright got some questions. First of all i usually just listen to the stock sound system in all of the cars ive been in, so i know jack about upgraded stuff, except that it sounds awesome. I was looking at these two subs, im guessing the type x is better just because of the price, but now sure:

eBay Motors: NEW ALPINE SWX-1243D TYPE-X 12" SUBWOOFER CAR AUDIO SUB (item 280212567694 end time Apr-05-08 20:35:11 PDT)

eBay Motors: NEW ALPINE TYPE R 12" 1500w CAR AUDIO SUBWOOFER SUB 06 (item 280212885422 end time Apr-06-08 20:24:11 PDT)


Second, what else would i need to get that setup in my car? Like Would I need a whole new head unit and all or can i just wire that up to the car?

Third, what other little things like wire or stuff would i need?

Fourth, What would be a good amp to power that without risking blowing the speaker up?

Last, how much would it all be together?
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have mommy and daddy pay some one to do it for you
Here is a link to my website-
http://www.czech-it-out-graphics.com
1/29/07 never forget....TTT Confusedalute:
Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you

"Always Imitated, Never Duplicated"
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Stock Head unit probably doesnt have RCA output for your amp. Probably will need a new head unit. Thats difficult with your car because your radio alos doubles as your cars information center they make an aftermarket information center but im not sure how much it runs. Whats with you people and Subs anyway...Tongue
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
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Some people have this strange idea that the sound of your fenders rattling off actually makes the music sound better. I guess when you listen to rap it cant get any worse lol
Here is a link to my website-
http://www.czech-it-out-graphics.com
1/29/07 never forget....TTT Confusedalute:
Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you

"Always Imitated, Never Duplicated"
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Some Subs sound good, not just rattling. And I got a job so i gotta pay for everything now, my parents wont even pay me into the track. And i thought u were the one with the parents buying u that rc8??
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lol i paid all my debts months and months ago
Here is a link to my website-
http://www.czech-it-out-graphics.com
1/29/07 never forget....TTT Confusedalute:
Bringing old know-it-all blow hards back to reallity at a forum near you

"Always Imitated, Never Duplicated"
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J-Dub Wrote:Stock Head unit probably doesnt have RCA output for your amp. Probably will need a new head unit. Thats difficult with your car because your radio alos doubles as your cars information center they make an aftermarket information center but im not sure how much it runs. Whats with you people and Subs anyway...Tongue


I also got that information center too tho built into the steering wheel, like you push this button on the wheel and all the info like tire pressure, oil life, miles, trip, stuff like that. Is that the same thing or would i still need the hu?
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J-Dub Wrote:Stock Head unit probably doesnt have RCA output for your amp. Probably will need a new head unit. Thats difficult with your car because your radio alos doubles as your cars information center they make an aftermarket information center but im not sure how much it runs. Whats with you people and Subs anyway...Tongue

Wrong. No need to unless he has the spare change.
Just gotta tap into two speakers for signal and get a LOC or get an amp that has the imputs for it.

The amp you should/could get for the type r could be one of two
Alpine mrp m650 or mrp m450. 650 is a little overpower, 450 is a little under.

I should be able to help you get it all installed, but you'll have to find someone to tune it for you b/c I had someone else do it for me.

Since you got the batt in the trunk, you don't really need a wiring kit.
You can go to a local audio store and get about 3-4 ft of 2 or 4 gauge wire and some really small (12-14) signal wire, and something in middle (8 gauge) and be ok and less than an actual kit would cost you.

Total damage you're looking at will be anywhere from $400 and up for new stuff.
Tekno EB48.4 HobbyWing XR8 Sanwa M12
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You could tap into a wire...but you wouldnt get the sound quality. If you just wanna bump thats fine I guess. all I had in my old Nissan Sentra was a 10" Sub at like, 1/4 strength. I forget what crap I had it's been like 4 years. but I had upgraded speakers too. It sounded just fantastic. Basically why would you want to F$%@ up the wiring on a NEW car. Don't half Ass it, Do it right. Splicing is a waste of time.

Also: His battery is under the hood, not in the trunk.
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
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Sounds fine in my expedition. IDK. Works fine too if you don't have the cash.


I believe that he does have a batt in the trunk tho...who would make that shit up?
Tekno EB48.4 HobbyWing XR8 Sanwa M12
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I work in a GM Garage. Im pretty sure that car doesnt have a battery in the trunk. I'd have to go look cause I don't remember but im like 99% sure. Only cars that really have the battery in the trunk is like, Buicks, Cadillacs. and actually those are under the back-seat.
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
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First:

Michowski.... I wouldn't say that you could get a 10" to sound better than that. That is obviously set up for pure SPL and not SQL. Therefore, you would never out hit that system with a 10. For SQL, I agree, but it wouldn't be hard to make it sound better IMO.

Second:

Type R versus Type X.

Since you say you have no idea, go Type R. You can get away with a cheaper amp, tapping speaker leads, and get a pretty decent sounding system for MUCH less. Now, if you can spend as much as you want, by all means go Type X. You will need a more expensive amp and I would strongly recommend a head unit. However, I think there are other options at that price point (Type X) that sound as good or better.

Third:

Ponch..... tapping speaker wires is the half assed way to do it. Trust me, I know because that is how mine is done right now. With the way VW runs their "premium" sound the speakers are individually amped. That means that for me to replace the head unit, I need to replace/rewire EVERYTHING. I didn't have the money to do it, so I didn't. My sub is tuned really well with the rest of the system, but it is not the best it could be. You lose a LOT of adjustment by just tapping speaker leads as well. If you can afford to get a head unit with RCA's, do it.

That should cover it.
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Ya it helps alot. But since you say splicing is a waste, then what is the other option for that? i dont want to go messing with the wires and all on a brand new car.
And yes, it has a battery in the front and the back of the car, the rear battery is hooked up to the brake and tail lights. Its under the trunk where the spare tire is.
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And if i do go with a sub, it would prolly be the type-r because its a little bit cheaper and i think it'll be fine for starters. And ill prolly go with the smaller amp because id rather be under than be over and blow it. 10" or 12"? Oh, and will the type-r sound clear or just bang hard? So wait, i dont really get it, if the amp has too many watts it can blow the speaker or what?
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the type r is a good sound q sub. and wtf was gm thinking with 2 batterys wow they must have hired some crack heads
Confusedalute:Casterracingusa.com Confusedalute: TrueRC.comConfusedalute: Confusedalute:Fusionracingrc.com (Fusion Fluids) Confusedalute: Nitrotoyz.comConfusedalute:Thercshack.comConfusedalute:Fastlane-graphix.comConfusedalute:
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It helps with the sound systems tho!
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You are probably more likely to blow a sub with too little power as opposed to too much power. You want clean power (good amps) and you need to have it tuned properly. You don't want the sub to be getting a clipped signal. (I really don't know how to explain this online.) The best way is to get a head unit. You can likely get an adapter so that you don't need to rewire everything but just plug the existing harness into the new head unit and run RCA cables back. I don't know what battery is in the back of the car. Make sure it is capable of handling the draw that a sub will put on it. Don't just use it because of the convenience.
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Its probably a small battery. . . If it's just for lights. I hate it when people Rig stuff. Save your coin and do it right. So you won't have issues. Do it wrong once, and you'll be paying for it twice.
LSP lots of Khz, Werks .28 8 port.

Revo 2.5, TRX 3.3 Engine, Center Diff. Fast and Turns on a dime.
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Buttt, dont i need to do it a special way since the stereo in there is the info system or wutever u said?
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