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Does anybody have any suggestions for getting a screw out of my engine?
I thought it a good idea to buy a titanium replacement set of red screws and decided to replace the screws that hold down my cooling head. Well to make a long story short the first screw I tried to put in snapped and left nothing to grip w/ pliers or anything like that??? I don't have a dremel but I am willing to purchase one if that is the only way to get the darn thing out
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did just the head snap off? if so if you take all the other screws out it should come off.
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From his description it sounds like it below the level of the block, with the head removed....ouch.
Drilling it out might be the only option....carefully!
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DAVEC-NITRO-RS4 Wrote:From his description it sounds like it below the level of the block, with the head removed....ouch.
Drilling it out might be the only option....carefully!
carefully. he said they were ttitanium thats some hard shiet.
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Must not have been that hard if it broke installing it in an aluminum engine block :eek:
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i have already broken 1 drill bit... i am going to go to home depot and see if they recomend anything for drilling titanium
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good luck. the drill bits that drill thru ti and stainless are very expensive. you'll keep breakin home depot bits like pretzel sticks. you might have to get a matco or snap on bit from someone. I paid like 400 for my drill bit set and they still get dull on stainless. Oh and don't break a matco or snap on that small cause they don't warranty them lol
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I would say drill very carefulle. When you get it out I would retap the hole and clean everything out real well. You should be ok. Get access to a drill press if you can....
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I say take the titanium screws out (the 3 good ones) because titanium and aluminum form a bond that is not associated with steel screws in aluminum. Meaning titanium screws should not be used when threaded into aluminum (the block of your motor is aluminum).
So to remedy this situation I would replace the 3 titanium screws with the stock screws and just run it with 3 tightened screws. Leave the broken screw where it lays.
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I completely agree with above post... Your only going to make it worse
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03-19-2007, 07:41 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-19-2007, 08:34 PM by SixVi6-Camaro.)
Ti is junk for screws. They are acutally weaker than steel black oxide screws and Ti is brittle under load. They snap and shear like nothing too.
You can slot the top of the screw and use a very small screw driver to get it out. even if you go into the block a little to slot it won't hurt anyhitng because the engine seal is on the top of the sleve to the head button. If ts way below the top of he block there is nothing you can do but buy a new block. I had to do this to an old engine of mine and it was fine. Ti is very hard and tough to machine so drilling it out won't be an option without a drill press and a nice made jig to hold everyhitng perfect with a serious bit.
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The reason Ti screws do that is cuz they are too hard they just snap instead of bending etc, the only thing that u will be able to drill titanium with is a carbide drill bit I know my dad has some from work they arent cheap
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Yep, I have a carbide routing bit that i used for fine port work on my TA's intake. That chewed through aluminum like crazy even on a dremel.
I agree with John, you aren't going to be able to really drill out that screw. You'll end up screwing up the block. Either run with 3, or buy a new block.
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car will not start now...wtf??? new to the hobby but I am guessing that I am not getting compression as fuel seems to come out of the glow plug now... any suggestions about a new engine for the truck???
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This is with one less screw holding the head on?
What truck is this in?
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Replacement motor= Dynamite .12. $80 so cheap when it goes out and plenty of power for a GT.
What motor are you having this problem with? I might have an extra mach .15 block laying around for you if it was the stocker.
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If that truck of your has an OS, just send the thing in to OS for warranty. But put all the stock screws back in before you do.
Just say the head of the screw snapped off, and most likely OS will simply replace the block for you. Or they may even just give you a new motor.
That is, if you have a OS.
If not, well we still dont' know what MikeV have in it.
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mach 15 re
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that's the newer mach.15 right?
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i would assume since i have had it since janurary... i was reading my owners manual and i think i'm gonna send it in to see if it is covered under the 90 warranty... if it isn't what do i have to lose right?
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